110960 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the ... Read more dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.

I first went to your site and studied the parts diagram to see where the element was located. I then unplugged the dryer and pulled from the wall. After that I popped open the front cover and accessed the bottom of the dryer where the element was located. I then removed two screws that held the element in place and removed the wires to ... Read more the element. After a little tug the old element came out. I slid the new one in place and connected the wiring and screws and replaced the cover and pluged it in. Works good as new...

First my son and I moved the dryer to the garage as we believed there would be a lot of lint possible during disassembly. Used a flat head screwdriver to pop the top from dryer housing. Then removing 2 nuts to facilitate the removal of the front of the dryer. The drum was able to be removed to diagnose the offending drum roller wheel. ... Read more The drum roller wheel has experienced a failure as it had melted off of the metal spacer. Removing it and replacing with the new one was pretty easy. We then used a shop vac and an air hose to clean out all the lint, coins, paper clips and lost jewelry. Surprisingly there was not a single sock in there. Put it all back together in reverse order and plugged it in and now spins like a dream.

Local stores did not have any in supply. Went to Partselect and located lint screen, ordered, received in 3 days. replaced screen, Wife now happy again...

With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had c ... Read more overed the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.

Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.

While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.

Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:

I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.

The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.

The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.

The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.

The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.

The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.

Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.

With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.

The front of the dryer was attached .

The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.

The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.

The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.

The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.

Great parts and support Thankyou

Follow the advice given in the partsselect website. However, while removing the blower, my hand slipped into the housing and cut my thumb. Connected the wires to the junction box on the motor but didn't realize that the contacts would hit the drum when reinstalled. The original junction box was at a 90 degree rotation relative to the n ... Read more ew box. When trying to test the breaker tripped. Using the multitester I found out that I burned out the thermal fuse, and froze the door switch. I replace both those parts and started the dryer and could hear a grinding sound. Inspection revealed that the housing of the motor was rubbing against the drum. Removing the drum yet again, I rotated the housing and replaced the drum. The dryer was finally working well.

I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?

As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. T ... Read more he belt ran in a groove in that piece.

The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).

As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.

My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.

I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).

Good luck!

First, I removed the wet clothes from the dryer. (Actually, I just kept drying them with cold air until they were dry... hee hee).
Then, I went to PartSelect.com and found a heating element for my make and model. I checked around and came back to PartSelect.com because they had the best price.

I thought about just buying t ... Read more he heating coil and restringing my old one, but I'm glad I didn't because the diameters were not a match and I wouldn't have been able to restring the new larger coil through the insulator holes of my old one.

I ordered my part Sunday night online and it was stated that my part would ship to me by Monday morning. It also said to allow 3-5 days to arrive.
My part was waiting for me Tuesday when I arrived home from work. That was quick!

I took the part out of the box and looked at it and said, "Yep, that's a heating element alright. I hope it fits."

I took the heating element out to the laundry room/garage/wife's shoes and clothing storage and muscled the dryer away from the wall and into a tiny area that she calls my space.

I pulled the lint trap screen out so I could get to those two screws that keep the lint shute attached to the top and unscrewed them.

Next, I lifted the top up just like you would a car's hood. Here's a cool trick to pop the top up. Pound the upper left front with the butt of your hand at the same time you are prying the top up on the left. Do the same on the front upper right area. That should help get that top up.

There was a bracket I knew about that I had to unscrew once the top was up. The bracket holds the top ot the heating element's box. It has to be removed so you can remove the heating element's box from the back in the next step.

With that heating element box bracket removed, I closed the top back down and then put the dryer on the floor with the door down and the back facing up.

I removed all the screws that were holding the back on and put the back out of my way, but still within the confines known as my space.

I pulled two electrical wires connected to a limit switch which were attached to the heating element box. Then I pulled the two power wires from the heating element itself.

Then I wiggled the heating element box out of the dryer and unscrewed a screw that was holding the heating element to the box.

I slipped the old heating element out of the box and put it next to the new one. Then I said a couple cuss words, because I noticed that the new element was much wider than the old one.

I took the new element and tried to slip it in the box. It just barely fit. Wow, that was a close call.

I knew that the element couldn't touch any part of the box it was nested in or it would cause a short and become an electrifying experience to remember. I checked very carefully that the heating element was safely suspended inside the box and no part of coil was touching the box.

Then I reattached the box to the dryer just the way I removed it. I wired it up and the limit switch too. I put the back back on. I stood the dryer back upright and popped the top again. I reinstalled the upper heating element brace back the way it was. It was a bit of a puzzle, because it's shaped funny.

Then I closed the top back down and it snapped into place. I put the lint trap screws back in. I positioned the dryer back were it likes to dance best and plugged it in.

I turned it on and it got hot. End of story!

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

Removed old filter and put in new one.

Following the very helpful instructions that I found at PartSelect.com I was able to open the dryer and access the heating element which I suspected was bad. I realized later that I didn't need to open up as much as I did but the job was easy. In the future I would only open the panel below the door to access the element.

J ... Read more ust to make sure that it wasn't a problem with a thermostat or thermal fuse I also checked continuity from the temperature selector knob on the control panel to the heating element. When I verified continuity (zero resistance) I knew that the element was bad. Once I removed it I could see that one of the coils was broken and I should have just checked that first and not bothered opening up the control panel at the top.

Still it was less than an hour of work total. I have some experience with DIY projects but have not worked on appliances before. Thanks for the great site with good instructions and lower costs than the local parts counter.

the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. ... Read more Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme