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11092976100 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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Agitator moves freely in both directions
14 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from NAPERVILLE, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and
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pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.
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Washer vibrates excessively on spin cycle
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Glenn from PROVO, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and di
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d that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.
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would not spin properly even with new coupling
16 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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david from o, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towa ... Read more rds me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towa ... Read more rds me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order
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Will Not Spin
13 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Temple, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tr
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ied removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.
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Rear dryer drum seal came out
17 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Pontiac, MO
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.
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Door latch (female part) was broken.
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JEANMARIE from BELLEROSE, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.
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Pump but not spin-oil leaking-agitation noise
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alvaro from CLEMENTON, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the lo
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ng shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.
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Washer was leaking.. determined it was center gasket
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from BALTIMORE, MD
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.
Other Parts Used:
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Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.
22 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kim from West Liberty, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and starte
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d stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).
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Upper agitator did not rotate
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Brooksville, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the rinse dispenser from Agitator. Unbolted and removed agitator from machine.
Directions said remove upper agitator by pulling apart. Had to brace bottom with both feet, and lift straight up. Came off. Replaced 4 cogs, re=assembled and re-installed.
Directions said remove upper agitator by pulling apart. Had to brace bottom with both feet, and lift straight up. Came off. Replaced 4 cogs, re=assembled and re-installed.
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tub oscillation
12 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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leonard from phil campbell, AL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright
and returned washer upright
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spin cycle was not working / poor
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Craig from Plano, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive ass
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embly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.
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Top of washer wasn't attached to base
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Janel from Las Vegas, NV
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, let me start off by saying - this part wouldn't normally break. Because it's a stackable, and my dryer motor went out, the repair company had to move the entire unit from the cubicle. When the repairman tried moving it by using the washer lid ... lets just say he broke the clip. And then we could never get them to come fix the
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part they broke!
So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.
Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.
Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.
Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.
Easy, right?
So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.
Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.
Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.
Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.
Easy, right?
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my teenage son was messing around and got into the dryer and broke the door catch and bent the door.
13 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dawn from Chesapeake City, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!
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Tub banged against the front of case during spin
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Boca Raton, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the
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suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.
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