1108613 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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the cable for the dryer door broke.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Todd from WESTERVILLE, OH
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
simple repair, pop the dryer lid, remove the screw for the front of the door. install cable and spring and then reassemble.
The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.
The only task that took some time was remembering to take out the screws for the lint port prior to lifting the lid.
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Door cable and spring broke.
7 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Oxford, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I looked up my paperwork on the dryer and found out how to remove the proper panel to get to the inside of the door. (I was able to find the manual on the internet also).
I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.
Parts received were exactly like the broken ... Read more ones.
Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00
John
I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.
Parts received were exactly like the broken ... Read more ones.
Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00
John
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The door cables broke and latch was warn to the point of being too loose
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wiley from LIVONIA, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
This model top can be popped off after removing the two screws under the lint filter. Once exposed remove the old cables and feed them through the hole on the front panel. Feed the springs through the ends of the cables and hook the other end into the dryer side panel slots towards the top on each side. Once both cables are fed, feed t
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he opposite ends of the cables into the slots in the dryer door (after popping the white plastic covers out of them first). Put the white covers back into the slots to hold cables into doors. The door catch kit install is pretty obvious.
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Heating unit burned out.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Osceola, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.
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broken handle
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from New Bedford, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
1) removed the old broken filter
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!
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Lint Filter wore out had to be replace
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Don from Dayton, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Changed out the lint filter
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Frig stopped cooling - Freezer side iced up
6 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Walter R from Gainesville, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrost
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ing properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!
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Clothes took multiple cycles to fully dry.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donald from Pine City, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.
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small dark lines appearing on clothes
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Ankeny, IA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Like others have descibed, place Dryer on back and remove two hex head screws on back two phillips screws under lint cover, front is "clamped" with two plastic clips that I popped with a standard screwdriver. The door has two screws on the door switch, I removed these although I'm not sure I needed to. Lift the front out of the way. Look
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at the belt before you remove it, the tensioner pully isn't screwed in place and drops once the belt is removed. It isn't hard to figure out how it goes back together, but you might as well save the swearing. Remove the belt and the drum lifts out. Remove the old seal and glue the new one in place. Another repair suggested clothes pins to hold the seal while it dried, but I opted for some spring clamps with a little more grip. While the seal dries vaccuum the inside of the dryer and vent pipe clean everthing up good by the time you're done the glue is dry. Put the drum back in using a putty knife to slip the seal in place. re assemble in reverse order of disassembly. If I were doing this repair again I would have bought the front seal too. It doesn't appear to get as much wear as the back, but while you have it open why not? Repair easier than expected, but took more time with the cleaning and glue dry time.
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a loud, high-pitched ringing noise
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Craig from Booneville, AR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
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old seal was disintegrating
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Vancouver, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
As the instructions say: first remove the drum. In the case of my dryer the drum is supported by two rollers on the back panel and the opening in the front panel. Remove the front panel and the drum almost falls out.
Replacing the seal was easy . Just tear out the old seal, lightly sand the rear lip, stretch the new seal ove ... Read more r it, being sure the stitching is oriented properly, and then squeeze adhesive from the supplied tube between the seal and the drum lip.
In putting the dryer back together I couldn't figure out how to thread the belt. I suggest that people attempting this repair take digital pictures of the inside of the appliance before disassembling it.
A very good experience and I prolonged the life of the dryer a good ten more years.
Replacing the seal was easy . Just tear out the old seal, lightly sand the rear lip, stretch the new seal ove ... Read more r it, being sure the stitching is oriented properly, and then squeeze adhesive from the supplied tube between the seal and the drum lip.
In putting the dryer back together I couldn't figure out how to thread the belt. I suggest that people attempting this repair take digital pictures of the inside of the appliance before disassembling it.
A very good experience and I prolonged the life of the dryer a good ten more years.
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Dryer makes squealing noise, finally the motor seized up.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from PITTSTON, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered
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a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.
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Lint Filter wore out.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Claude from Austin, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
It required no tools, just take out the old torn filter and slip in the new one. I should have ordered it a year ago, with the ease of the website and the delivery via Fed Ex. super easy.
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Gasket was falling off, needed replacement
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from N. Ferrisburg, VT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.
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dryer would not turn on
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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donald from MANVILLE, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
turned off the power and removed the back cover, checked the thermal fuse had no continuity. ordered new part. very easy Installed the new thermal fuse,.replaced the cover, turned on the power and worked fine.
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