11084722402 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.

Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.

My dryer started making a loud rumbling and clanking sound and I didn't know what was wrong.

First I pulled it away from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I loosened the four nut/screws across the top of the rear of the dryer with my adjustable wrench then removed them with the flathead screwdriver. Then from the front of the machine, pulled the top of the dryer towards me, freeing the top and removed it. I could see one belt towards the front of the machine that appeared to be intact. I plugged the dryer back in and ran it... It spun but continued to clank and rumble. I noticed a "groove" near the rear of the drum and didn't see a belt there so I assumed that I needed the rear belt and ordered a replacement. I WAS WRONG. It turned out that there is actually only ONE BELT on this machine, that in fact I needed replacement DRUM WHEELS.

Next, I unplugged the power cord again and then I removed all twenty some-odd screws from the rear of the machine... which was POINTLESS as it only gave me access to the heating element, so I replaced this and all the screws.

I then removed the inside top nut/screw from the front panel on both the right and left inner lip. The panel then lifted up and off of the machine...only connected at this point to the rest of the dryer by the wires.

I made a schematic of the wires and which color was connected where, and then only removed those that were necessary to detatch the front panel completely from the dryer (so I could easily replace them properly later).

I noticed at this point that the belt was still functioning (although was cracked and needed replacing soon anyways)...but that the bottom drum wheel had worn itself down on the inside (where it rests on the axle)...the rubber around the outside was still good... but the whole wheel needed replacing. The side drum wheel (same part number as bottom) appeared to be fine.

I ordered replacement DRUM WHEELS (they sell them in packages of two only).

When the wheels arrived, I got down on my hands and knees and noticed how the belt was connected to the drive spindle of the motor... by a spring levered plastic wheel... very simple. Push the spring lever towards the drive spindle of the motor...loosening the belt. Then removed the belt from the motor, relaxing the spring and the belt came off, hanging only around the drum of the dryer.

Without tension on the spring levered plastic wheel, it came off of the bottom of the dryer completely. (If your belt has broken, you most likely will find this sitting on the bottom of your dryer...I will tell you how to attach it later on in this story.).

I carefully pulled the sides of the dryer case apart and slid one side of the drum forward out of the case...then slowly slid the other side of the drum out of the case...gently lifting up and out...completely removing the drum from the machine....setting it aside.

The dryer (inside the case) was FILTHY. I got out the handheld vacuum and cleaned it all out (finding a religous medallion, an earring, and over $2.00 in change). I vacuumed the inner bottom, sides, motor, and took advantage of vacuuming the inside of the lint collector as well... cleaning it up nicely.

The bottom drum wheel was attached by a triangular plastic clip (on both sides of the wheel)...I removed the plastic clip carefully by gently prying it off with the flat edged screwdriver... being careful not to break it. There was a LOT of hair wrapped around the axle near the triangular clip and used the pliers to pull the hair off...then removed the bad wheel..then the plastic clip behind where the wheel was sitting...and the hair there as well. I cleaned off the axle thoroughly, then did the same with the other drum wheel (even though it looked fine, I replaced them both.).

I set the old side wheel aside with the old (still useable) triangular plastic clips. In the future if one of the wheels goes bad... I'll have a replacement that will get me by.

Then I slid one of the NEW triangular p

It was so easy... Pop out the old with flatblade screw driver and insert new piece... Works perfectly and looks better than the velcro strip I was using to hold the door shut...! Thanks for fast delivery and having the part available...

Regards,
JBL

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..

Took the dryer top off and removed the bad part. Looked it up online and found a replacement by looking for whirlpool parts. They didn't have one at the local parts stores so I ordered the part online and had it mailed within three days. I replaced it quite easily. It worked and I put everything back together and my wife took over the tricky part of drying the laundry! The repair was quite easy for a non mechanical person like me.

easy three prong push-in,...

The first thing I did was call my friend Donnie who manages some apartment buildings and who is always complaining about fixing things and getting the right parts to fix things. He told me what to order from PartsSelect and when the parts got here I called him up and he did the repair work.

He was reluctant to do the work at first but after he found out I had ordered the parts from PartsSelect he was happy to do the work. "Their parts are always right and they always work," was what he said after he had my dryer working just like new. So if you know nothing about fixing things and buying parts just call PartsSelect and you will be fine. Just ask my friend Donnie!!!

remove the front panel, belt [notice the way the belt is fasten] remove the tub, support bracket to the drum roller, and slide the new drum roller on and place the tre ring in the slot. then re-install everything in reverse

Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.

Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Found that when the dryer continued to run after the door was opened that the door switch had gone bad. I unpluged the Dryer, opened the top of the dryer to get access to the switch by lifting top up with fingers and a gentle prying of a flat screwdriver to release spring clips holding it down. I then unplugged the wires from the switch and removed the 2 screws that held the switch in. Then reverse this process when you get your new switch from part select (which we received in 2 days) and the total time to fix it took aprox. 10-15 min. total to do. Easy fix for ANY handy person at home!