11084090110 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

1- Unplugged washer. 2- Turned off water supply to hoses hot and cold. (marked hoses H C) 3- Unscrewed hoses to washer. 4-Used phillips head screw driver to take out screws(2) at corners of washer. 5- Slid top of washer forward and lifted top off. 6- Took out retaining clips on each side of washer. 7- Slid frame of washer outward exposing rear panel of washer for access to water inlet valve. 8- Used 1/4" drive to take out screw to inlet valve. 9- Removed inlet valve, unplugged the two connectors and removed clamp from hose to valve. 10- Replaced new inlet valve and reversed the process to assemble washer back together. Total time for repair, about 45 minutes. I now have full running cold water to washer. Thanks guys for the video you provided. Would purchase again if needed. Thanks again!!! Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket Part Number: PS334646

Followed by installation on line

Unplugged the power while the washer was running, and the water kept on running. The water inlet valve was stuck open. I removed the inlet valve and you cold blow air thru it, it should be closed with no power applied.Ordered replacement from this site it was a perfect fit. As far as the removal and installation procedure, just follow the video as presented on this site. Good Look.

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

Ordered the correct part, watched a YouTube video.

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

The valve was easy to change, but we as homeowners should change the hot and cold hoses just like they say you should every 5 years. The hoses grew to the water valve and it was almost a disaster. After cutting the end with a dremmel and clamping visegrips on it I finally got it loose. After that it went smooth. Thanks for getting me the part so fast.

Turn off water, unplug machine
Disconnect water lines to the valve
Unscrewed the clear plastic tabs on the top of the machine, then pryed the back away from the top white part.
Two gold clips can be popped out with a long flat head screw driver.
Pulled the back away from the machine enough to disconnect the wires from the valve. Unscrew the screw(s) from the valves.
Old valves out, new valves in. Plug in the wires, screw in the screws.
Then, to get the gold tabs back in place.....i called NASA.
just kidding. They're tough!
I slipped one into the back and held it in place with my thumb. Then I lined the piece up with the slot inside the machine. Then, i pryed the top white part away as I pushed them together. Stuck a long handle screwdriver down in and pushed REALLY hard on the gold tab to get it to snap into place. Everything is really tight, so you might have to try it a few times.....i left some blood behind.
repeat for the other side, snap in the clear tabs, hook up the water lines, plugged it in......
Then I sat back and listened to my wife praise me for fixing her machine!

Removed two clips on back panel holding control panel.Removed end plates on control panel. removed two front screws holding control panel. removed wiring harnesses noting location. Set control panel aside. Removed two large clips holding rear panel to washer cabinet. Pulled washer cabinet from the front away from the rear panel and tube. Removed two screws holding water inlet valve. Removed water inlet hose from inlet valve using channel lock pliers. Installed new water inlet valve using supplied mounting bracket. Reassembled washer in reverse order.

I just followed the instructions found on this website. It covered everything you need to know. I have just one thing to add though. Look over everything first and formulate a game plan. Keep all screws etc. and put them in a plastic bag so you don't lose them. You might try using a heavy hammer to force the clips holding the back panel to the top of the machine back in place. One more thing; use a piece of wood to set the back panel on while you replace the intake valve.

Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.

That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order

The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.

Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.

My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

I had to call in to find the correct part because the online recommended part looked very different, and the one found using the model number had no photo, so I was VERY leary of ordering. The service rep said that Kenmore products did not always show up correctly and he gave me the part number needed and there was a photo. The part was not exactly the same, but looked very similar and it was more than 50% less than the original recommended part and part with no photo. I thought that the problem finding Kenmore parts was odd since Kenmore is like number one, right? Part took 3 days to arrive, which I thought was great. Turned off power and water. Removed water hoses. Removed three screws from the back of the top (front loader). Removed the top. Removed a screw holding on the water inlet valve from the outside of the unit through the back cover which required a star driver. Unattached the 4 electrical leads. Unattached the outlet water hose (held on with a squeeze type metal clamp -not sure of the exact name for these). The problem that I had was that the water outlet hose bib attachment was slightly larger than the old one, so the hose would go back on, but the clamp was too small so I cusses a lot before figuring out the problem. I had to go and purchase a new larger clamp. After that, I simply attached the electrical connections and put the outlet back on. One other small problem was that the place where the screw through the back cover was originally attached no longer lined up with the new valve. The plastic piece was shorter than the old one so the screw hole did not line up with the hole in the back panel. The screw isn't really necessary. Overall, replacing the part was easy and I was pleased with the process.