110798 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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Bought motor, then bought blower wheel also
95 of 111 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Coatesville, PA
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw!
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Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!
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Dryer would only heat cycle once
90 of 101 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Seattle, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the c
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oils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.
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Broken belt - drum would not turn
87 of 101 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Oakland, MD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcer
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ting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.
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Very Loud Squeaking Noise
79 of 100 people
found this instruction helpful.
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GREGORY from Wilsonville, OR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. E
... Read more
asy repair 15-30
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No Heat - everything else was functional
71 of 83 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kent from Sebastopol, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
After 30 miutes of research on this website I felt confident to investigate the problem. Removal of the back cover is straightforward. Initially I did not appreciate and obstruction of the ductwork exitting the dryer. I bypassed the thermal fuse by removing the wires and temporarily taping them together and heat was restored. Knowing
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flow was OK exitting the dryer I investigated flow from the lint trap to the blower motor which is where the problem was located. In our case the lint filter was torn allowing many small objects and lint to near completely clog the pathway between the lint trap and the blower motor. It was difficult to appreaciate how obstructed that pathway was without removing the entire channel from the machine which was simple and required removing two screws at the lint trap opening followed by 3-4 screws on the back of the channel. Once removed, it was easy to appreaciate the debris clogging the channel and was easy to clean with a hose and running water. Replacement was a snap. The parts were oredered and sent in a day. I prophylactically replaced thermastats based upon a recommendation from another website. Replacing previous parts with new parts was a snap. Out the door we were up and running for around $100 (including new thermostats). The dryer repair man may go the way of the dinosaur.
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Door switch did absolutely nothing....dryer kept running
98 of 166 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Clark from Melbourne, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I read a fix-it article from another contributor and followed those instructions to the T. Pull out lint trap, remove the two screws. Slide the top cover towards the front and prop it up with a mop handle.
Unscrew two screws in the door switch (with the door open) - Oh, to keep from killing yourself unplug the dryer just in case. ... Read more Take pliers and pull the plug apart. It will be right in front of you in the right corner at the top. Plug new switch into that plug, reinstall the switch by reinstalling the two screws you removed. Snap top back into place and reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Oh, don't forget to clean the trap and slide it back into the unit. Now you have earned that beer.
Put tools away and proudly show your job off to the wife telling her how difficult it was.
Unscrew two screws in the door switch (with the door open) - Oh, to keep from killing yourself unplug the dryer just in case. ... Read more Take pliers and pull the plug apart. It will be right in front of you in the right corner at the top. Plug new switch into that plug, reinstall the switch by reinstalling the two screws you removed. Snap top back into place and reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Oh, don't forget to clean the trap and slide it back into the unit. Now you have earned that beer.
Put tools away and proudly show your job off to the wife telling her how difficult it was.
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Door won't latch
95 of 158 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jill from bellevue, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks
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The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.
67 of 76 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Limington, ME
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Look ... Read more ing inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Look ... Read more ing inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.
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No heat to dry clothes
66 of 77 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Karen from Pine Mtn. Club,, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yr
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s old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.
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broken belt
66 of 78 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from exeter, RI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed back and top of dryer, then the support braces holding the drum, after that I took the drum out and the blower covers and cleaned the whole dryer of lint and other debris. Installed the new belt and then reassembled the dryer.
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Broken Switch Assembly
90 of 153 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Dearborn, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This was my first dryer repair, and it was so easy. Simply pull out the lint trap and unscrew the two screws that are exposed. They attach the top deck of the dryer to the drum.
Once it's unscrewed, pull forward while lifting the top of the dryer. The top is attached to the control assembly. They should both lift up, but ... Read more you'll need something to prop it up like you would the hood of your car.
Next, use the pliers to pinch the connector so that you can separate the two parts of the connector.
Open the dryer door to gain access to the screws that hold the switch in place. Use your screwdriver to unscrew the switch.
Plug the new switch connector in, and close up the dryer.
Word of caution; there are sharp edges inside the dryer so be careful.
Once it's unscrewed, pull forward while lifting the top of the dryer. The top is attached to the control assembly. They should both lift up, but ... Read more you'll need something to prop it up like you would the hood of your car.
Next, use the pliers to pinch the connector so that you can separate the two parts of the connector.
Open the dryer door to gain access to the screws that hold the switch in place. Use your screwdriver to unscrew the switch.
Plug the new switch connector in, and close up the dryer.
Word of caution; there are sharp edges inside the dryer so be careful.
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Felt gasket on lint filter loose...
61 of 71 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Catherine from Atascadero, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Found this site by googling, and it works! I searched lint filters and just ordered based on how it looked...LOL! Husband wasn't home, it looked pretty much like the one I had in my hand, so.... I ordered it. It is the perfect fit and seems to have a tighter gasket glued in all around the screen. Let's hope this one lasts longer than 6 mo
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nths! Thank you Parts Select for being so fast!! Filter got here in less than 48 hrs.!
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Rear tub seal failure
67 of 90 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerry from Everett, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the
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unit...works fine
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Replacing worn drum support rollers and shafts.
59 of 68 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Canton, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the ... Read more front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.
Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the ... Read more front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.
Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.
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Rear Dryer Seal was old and staining clothing
58 of 65 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Grace from Phoenix, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
After unplugging the dryer,I removed 2 bolts on the back top of the dryer, then removed the two screws in the lint box area. I used a screw driver to help force the top panel of the dryer up. When open, I removed the top screws that held the front and side panels together. I then lifted the front panel up and away from the dryer, so there
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would be room to take the drum out. I removed the belt from the pulley (located under the drum) and slid the drum out. I removed the old seal, cleaned up the drum and the inside of the dryer, then glued the new seal on. After the glue was dry, I put the drum back in (with the belt on the drum), put the belt back on the pulley and proceeded to put the dryer front back on. Once the front was on, I put the top back on and replaced the bolts on the back of the dryer. I plugged it in and it is working great! By the way, before this, I had NEVER attempted to repair a dryer before and I am female. If I could do it, so can anyone else willing to try :)
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