11079133412 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

We did repair by first watching a you tube video, then jumping in an dgoing step by step through the video. While not exactly the same dryer, the steps were in sequence. We thoroughly sleaned out the dryer with the tub out before reassembly. Th eonly slightly tricky part was putting front piece back, but once we mad esure ot align the sides for squareness the dryer went back together smoothly, execpt for one dropped screw. that was fished out through the bottom panel. The dryer runs quietly and we can watch TV with the door open to the laundry room again. I should have done this a long time ago. It started out by sqeaking at startup, then grew worse over time. I recomend anyone with a friend should be able to do this. Now with Cell phone pictures it is even easier to remember where the screw go.

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

I replace the terminal block, wires , and dryer plug I unscrewed the back of the dryer and basically replace was burnt out. I was about to pay 200.00 to have it done but I looked on youtube and seen how easy it was so I just chose the site to order what I needed to be replace and it arrived quickly and more affordable to do it myself. Thanks I hope the was useful.

Simply slid new idler wheel on then popped thr tri ring on. The belt replacment was the hardest thing which was also easy. I think pulling the dryer away from the wall was the most difficult thing.

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.