1107786 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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the dryer only blew cold air
48 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
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charles from waukesha, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)
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Dryer motor would not turn on
51 of 69 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Bluffton, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to
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pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.
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Dryer wouldn't turn on
49 of 64 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Olive from Williamsburg, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the back of the dryer taking off the screws. Found the disposable thermal fuse. Unplugged the 2 blue wires connected to it. Removed the screws holding the part in. Replaced the old part. Reattached the blue wires. Put the back on the dryer. And voila! That simple!
I'm a 39 year old woman with absolutely no patience fo ... Read more r tedious jobs, but this was so easy I felt good about doing it. And felt even better for saving lots of money by doing the repair myself.
I'm a 39 year old woman with absolutely no patience fo ... Read more r tedious jobs, but this was so easy I felt good about doing it. And felt even better for saving lots of money by doing the repair myself.
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Gas Flame Would Drop Out
49 of 66 people
found this instruction helpful.
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FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
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TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.
43 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Princeton, WV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as
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the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.
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No power
45 of 55 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nick from Brandon, FL
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total
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price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.
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Intermittent or no gas ignition, HSI ignightor working
43 of 50 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Sauk Village, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read
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about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.
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high pitched squeaking noise when dryer is first started.
40 of 41 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from TAVARES, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet. 2. Pull dryer out and disconnect the exhaust tube from the back. 3. Remove the screws at the top of the dryer back ( 3 ) and remove the top of the dryer. 4. The service instructions will be in a bracket on the top right. I didn't use them because I have done this job before. 5. Continue to rem
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ove the screws holding the back to the sides. There will be a lint collector attached to the back panel by three screws. This must be removed first, then the screws along the edge of the back panel. 6. Pull the back panel up and away from the sides and set aside. You will see two lower rollers attached to this panel. 7. Look under the drum and you will see a idler arm and roller in front of the electric motor and a little to the left. Notice that the drive belt is looped around the roller. Unloop the drive belt from idler and roller. 8. Lift the drum of the dryer up and out of the dryer. 9. Replace all the rollers (4) by removing the plastic "star" on the roller shaft. This can be done using a small screw driver. 10. Once the rollers are replaced, place the new drive belt, ribbed side facing the drum around the drum. Lift the drum up and into the dryer enclosure, making sure the rollers in the front of the drum are in the ridge groove. 11. Lift the back of the dryer in to the dryer enclosure, again making sure the rollers are in the rear groove. Turn the drum by hand to make sure the front seal is flush to the front of the dryer and that the front rollers are in the front groove. I2. Install drive belt around electric motor shaft ( ribbed side facing the shaft), lift idler arm up while running the non-ribbed side of the belt around the roller on the idler arm. 13. Install the back panel using the remaining screws. 14. Install the top of dryer by sliding it into the front panel and securing with the last three remaining screws, these 3 screws go on the top of the back panel. 15. Replace exhaust hose and replace dryer into space it formally occupied.
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Busted Belt & Pulley
43 of 51 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from West Haven, CT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actua
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lly did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
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Other Parts Used:
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Dryer would stop running after several minutes. Once cooled it would start again. Motor worn out and binding.
41 of 54 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Angela from Houston, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove back cover
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum
Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.
Vacuum everything while disassembled
Remember to take your time and not f ... Read more orce anything and this will go smooth.
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum
Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.
Vacuum everything while disassembled
Remember to take your time and not f ... Read more orce anything and this will go smooth.
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Other Parts Used:
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Gas burner would not ignite
37 of 42 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Conroe, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)
Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ... Read more ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ... Read more ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
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dryer drum wouldn't turn
36 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Peachtree City, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure ou
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t you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!
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worn out part
44 of 64 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Tucson, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
Other Parts Used:
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Needed lint filter for my old Kenmore dryer that was no longer manufactured by Sears.
35 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Fairfax, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Lint filter supplied by Parts Select was an exact replacement by an aftermarket manufacturer. I put the old one and the new one side by side and they were identical (of course, the handle wasn't broken off on the new one!). I coulnd't be happier. It arrived at my house 2 days after I ordered it. I highly recommend Parts Select.
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Dryer door cable broken
37 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from Rochester Hills, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.
2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.
3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.
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4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel
5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.
6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.
7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.
8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.
9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.
10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.
11. Repeat for other cable as needed.
12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.
3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.
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4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel
5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.
6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.
7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.
8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.
9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.
10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.
11. Repeat for other cable as needed.
12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
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