110760 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110760
76 - 90 of 1952

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Broken door switch
24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Maricopa, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed your online video for disassembly and it was not only educational but actually quite simple. I would recommend that you start the video with," make sure the power cord is disconnected from the power source". I have worked on numerous pieces of large electrical equipment and would strongly suggest this be added. Some people think if it's, "off", it's safe. Your phone staff when ordering was great. We will do business again.
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Convert gas dryer to Propane
25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leonard from Lemitar, NM
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Received conversion kit. Removed front dryer panel,2 screws. Removed burner tube, 2 screws then removed natural gas orfice.
Installed propane orfice and repalced burner tube.
Removed regulater plug and replaced with new plug from kit using 90 degree ratchet screw driver. Approximately 20 minutes. Dryer working great.
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craked blower motor
63 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
  • joe from cheswick, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme
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Dryer would quit before the end of the cycle
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernest from Beaumont, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My wife reported that the dryer was not working. I checked it and it seemed to work fine. This went on for about a month or two. Every time I checked it, it started just fine.

Well, she threatened to go buy a new dryer, I took her more seriously. I thought perhaps a thermal protection was the cause. But when I dug into it, I learned that when those trip out, they are permanent (have to be replaced).

I finally noticed loud humming sound the motor made at start-up, when it failed to start turning on one occasion and eventually tripped out the motors thermal protection.

I ordered the new drive motor form PartSelect.com.

Replacing the motor was fairly easy if you like to take stuff apart. One thing that I had not anticipated was that the two foam gaskets on the exhaust duct were dry rotted. I went to my local part supplier to get them. They did not have them in stock. :( While I was there, I asked how much the motor was, they wanted $50 more than PartSelect.com :D

I put it back together without the new gaskets, and it runs like new. I ordered the gaskets from PartSelect and will add them when they arrive.

My wife is happy again, she can bust out the laundry in one day; it had been taking here all weekend.

I learned to take her at her word.
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Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds
24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christy from Riley, MI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.
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dryer stoped heating
23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • valerie from Elasmore, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices
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Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes
23 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint s creen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
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Poorly designed lint filter/ gasket falls off
25 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Madison, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replaced
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Needed to change rear exhaust to the side to fit dryer into my closet.
44 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from San Diego, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.
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Push start and the motor would hum.
22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Manitowoc, WI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
**** Remove power cord from the wall****

As said earlier, you will need to lift the top. Drop the two screws holding the lint shoot and pop the top by sliding a screw driver into the corner on the front. Lif tthe top and rest against the wall behid the unit. remove the two (4 total) screws at the top and bottom of the front doo r assembly.
Place sometin under the front portion of the drum. At this point you'll see the need to clean everything! :) Slide the belt off and around the drum, (take note of the routing it takes.) Remove the drum by gently pulling it towards you. Set it aside. Clean more. :) (It is nice to have a vacuum handy.) At this point you really need to get to the rear of the system. So I tipped the top back down, and spun it around. Removed the rear panel and cleaned some more. (15 years of a lot of lint in there!) Then you'll need to remove the rear cover on the left side, covering the blower impeller. Get read for a whole lot of debris. Vacuum again. So now you have the motor exposed in the front and rear. You need to remove the impeller by turning that clockwise to loosen it. The trick is holding the shaft in place from the front at the same time. I used an old rag and wedged it into the impeller edges and worked it around until it jamed up. Once the rag was wedged pretty good, I went back to the front spun the shaft. Then you can remove the impeller by hand. Vacuum more. You may get by without having to remove the lint shoot completely, but I did just to clean it up more. I did have to remove two screws in the upper corner near the top of the lint shoot. (Basically the hold the back in place.) I took a few notes at this point about the wiring harness. Used a heavier screw driver (standard), You can push down on the clips that hold the old motor in place. Then work it out the front. Clean more. The new motor is not an exact replacement slightly differnt but the instructions with it were ok. Follow them for the correct wiring. You will need to remove one wire and cut and recrimp a spade lug or two. I used ty-wraps to secure the lines back in place. Look closely at the diagrams and make sure you set the motor down in the same direction the instructions say, if you twist it slightly it will sorta lock in place where it needs to be. Re-install the hold down clips to the front and rear of the motor. Clean up your impeller, and reinstall it too. Then basically reassemble the dryer...tracing your steps backwards. This isn't really difficult, it just takes time and as you can see, you will/should clean as you go !
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No heat
27 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jaime from Chantilly, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Everything seems to work on the electric/gas dryer, but would not generate any heat. Did some research and ordered the thermal fuse & thermostat based on that. Replacement was simple and went well, however it did not fix the issue. Should have checked the continuity first as I found the "replaced parts" to be good. Have checked all ot her possible symptoms except the heating element, which requires addition labor. Overall, partselect portion was as advertised. All parts arrived quickly and were priced fair.
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Dryer working but drum light not working, bulb ok.
22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Denton from Indianapolis, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Problem: Drum light not working, bulb ok. Removed 6 screws on panel behind timer, light, buzzer, switches. Lifted back of dryer top then moved dryer top forward and off of dryer. The switch was located above the door. Unhooked wiring plug and took out 2 screws holding in the switch. Installed new switch and repaced bulb. Reassembled as ne eded and tested light by opening door. Works great.
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The Dryer Would Not Turn On
19 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ribhe from Wildwood, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The dryer wouldn’t turn on at all. It was like it was unplugged from the wall. However, fixing it couldn't be easier. I simply removed the back panel, found the fuse, tested it with an Ohmmeter (to determine that this was the part that didn't work), ordered the part from this website, and replaced the part. The part arrived in about t wo days. The shipping was a little pricey, but overall the whole thing cost me $20 vs. whatever it would cost me to get someone else to repair it. The website helps to identify the problem, and it is helpful to read how other people fixed their problems. It was so easy and the service was so good, I will definitely use this website again and recommend it to others.
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Idler Pulley broke
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Richmond, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.
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Would not heat sometimes
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
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All Instructions for the 110760
76 - 90 of 1952