11075132412 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11075132412
106 - 120 of 1389

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The handle to my dryer broke
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elouise from ORLANDO, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just popped it into place needing no tools at all. Took less than a minute.
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Badly worn idler pulley and rollers.
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TODD from GRASS VALLEY, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
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Dryer runs heats up, will run for a short period and then shuts down, after a minute or two it will come back on and will resume drying.
18 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Brookings,, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.
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Had to convert from natural gas to propane
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from The Rock, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well, here's the rub...in order to find out what part I needed to order, I needed to take the dryer apart to where the gas controls are, and there on a sticker was a part number for an LP conversion kit. But, in order to get to that gas valve unit, I fumbled about figuring out how to take this brand new dryer apart, since there were abs olutely no instructions whatsoever in the owners manual. And once apart, and pretty much all apart, I wondered how it would be that the Maytag repair man would be so lonely, as he'd have plenty to do.
However, the kit had great instructions as to how to take it apart and change out the orifices.
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the directions didn't say I needed clips to hold the felt in place while I did the glue
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from SAN JOSE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Once I started using a bunch of clothespins to hold the felt in place and then started gluing small sections at a time I was able to complete the task. The glue comes out of the tube very quickly so don't squeeze it a lot.
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my teenage son was messing around and got into the dryer and broke the door catch and bent the door.
13 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dawn from Chesapeake City, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!
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LP gas conversion
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Palmdale, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Followed instructions, except to advoid sharp edges, and completed the job in under an hour.
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Replaced a broken pulley.
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from IMLAY CITY, MI
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.

Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.
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Dryer belt broke- drum would not turn
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Oakdale, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner spru ng to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..
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burnt out bulb and broken switch
12 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • fanny from madison, WI
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Both my husband and I are not good at DIY or fixing things. I watched the instruction video that was posted on the PartSelect web site. It seems easy to do it, however still very skeptical. My husband decided that there is nothing to lose in trying, so we ordered the parts. It is as easy and simple as the video instruction. We are very ha ppy customers.
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The main knob insert snapped.
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from HICKORY, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
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Old motor was making noise and tripping after a few minutes
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Midland, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.
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Rollers were wore out
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chandra from Orange, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Just follow the instructions the one was provided with Maitanace kit we bought from you.
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Busted Dryer Belt
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Oscar from Dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..
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Humming noise then quit after pushing start. Drum would not turn manually.
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Derek from Missouri City, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding t he front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/
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All Instructions for the 11075132412
106 - 120 of 1389