11075 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11075
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Drum of the dryer was rotating but no heating
45 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tomasz from University Heights, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
First I removed the back cover (several screws). Then, I disconected wires from the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse (both of these parts were included in the Thermal Cut-Off Kit). Then, I removed four screws that hold these two parts, replaced the parts, put the screws back, and attached the wires. Finally, I put back t he cover.
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Gas Flame Would Drop Out
49 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
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TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.
43 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Princeton, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.
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No power
45 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nick from Brandon, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.
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Intermittent or no gas ignition, HSI ignightor working
43 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Sauk Village, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.
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high pitched squeaking noise when dryer is first started.
40 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from TAVARES, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet. 2. Pull dryer out and disconnect the exhaust tube from the back. 3. Remove the screws at the top of the dryer back ( 3 ) and remove the top of the dryer. 4. The service instructions will be in a bracket on the top right. I didn't use them because I have done this job before. 5. Continue to rem ove the screws holding the back to the sides. There will be a lint collector attached to the back panel by three screws. This must be removed first, then the screws along the edge of the back panel. 6. Pull the back panel up and away from the sides and set aside. You will see two lower rollers attached to this panel. 7. Look under the drum and you will see a idler arm and roller in front of the electric motor and a little to the left. Notice that the drive belt is looped around the roller. Unloop the drive belt from idler and roller. 8. Lift the drum of the dryer up and out of the dryer. 9. Replace all the rollers (4) by removing the plastic "star" on the roller shaft. This can be done using a small screw driver. 10. Once the rollers are replaced, place the new drive belt, ribbed side facing the drum around the drum. Lift the drum up and into the dryer enclosure, making sure the rollers in the front of the drum are in the ridge groove. 11. Lift the back of the dryer in to the dryer enclosure, again making sure the rollers are in the rear groove. Turn the drum by hand to make sure the front seal is flush to the front of the dryer and that the front rollers are in the front groove. I2. Install drive belt around electric motor shaft ( ribbed side facing the shaft), lift idler arm up while running the non-ribbed side of the belt around the roller on the idler arm. 13. Install the back panel using the remaining screws. 14. Install the top of dryer by sliding it into the front panel and securing with the last three remaining screws, these 3 screws go on the top of the back panel. 15. Replace exhaust hose and replace dryer into space it formally occupied.
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Busted Belt & Pulley
43 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from West Haven, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actua lly did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
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Dryer would not shut off on auto dry settings
42 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wiliam from Belleville, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.
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Dryer handle to open door broke
40 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from DALLAS, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took the old one off and pooped in the new one!
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dryer makes a lot of noice, bad rolleres
37 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesus E from Palm Bay, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
super fast shipping, got the part in two days, and had it done in 15-20 min, remove the front pannel, remove the belt and tenssioner,took the drum out , took the old rollers , lubed the shafts,replaced the old rollers with the new ones, intalled the drum back, the tenssioner and the new belt, reinstalled the front pannel, and done...easy and fast job, like new dryer, works nice...save some money...the new one will do the same..just dry the clothes.
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Gas burner would not ignite
37 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Conroe, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
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Dryer would stop running after several minutes. Once cooled it would start again. Motor worn out and binding.
41 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Angela from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove back cover
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum

Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.

Vacuum everything while disassembled

Remember to take your time and not f orce anything and this will go smooth.
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dryer drum wouldn't turn
36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Peachtree City, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure ou t you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!
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Needed lint filter for my old Kenmore dryer that was no longer manufactured by Sears.
35 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Fairfax, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Lint filter supplied by Parts Select was an exact replacement by an aftermarket manufacturer. I put the old one and the new one side by side and they were identical (of course, the handle wasn't broken off on the new one!). I coulnd't be happier. It arrived at my house 2 days after I ordered it. I highly recommend Parts Select.
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worn out part
44 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Tucson, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
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All Instructions for the 11075
61 - 75 of 2366