1107012511 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

Remove heater assembly, Modify replacement thermostat mounting including connector, replace burn't wire, reinstall

removed rear cover of dryer (approx. 10 screws)and replaced cycling thermostat located near blower per easy instructions

I pulled thee dryer out from the wall, shut off the gas & disconnected the gas line & the air vent, I then removed the fasteners from the upper end of the lint chute assembly (accessible from the top of the machine). I then tipped the machine over on to its front side making the back fully accessible. After removing the back cover, I removed the remaining fasteners holding the lint chute assembly in place & removed the part. I then removed the assembly only to find that the seals were not included in the package even though I had specifically asked about the seal when I called in & place my order. The response to my question was " seals are included that is why it is called an assembly." The end result was that I had to use alternate material & fabricate my own seals in order to complete the installation. As a result a repair which should have taken no more that 30 minutes, took over two hours.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

turn off elec./disconnect at recep.- remove vent pipe- remove back of dryer- remove each part and re-install new part- relaced thermal cut-off, thermostat, fuse, and heat element...time about 30 min. also vacuumed dryer and vent pipe-time less than 15 min.- parts arrived day after they were ordered.

Removed top, Face and pulled the tub out. Blew out all the dust and lint. Cleaned and lubed tensioner, installed new tub plastic bearing and reassembled.

I watched several Youtube videos for this repair. The best showed a man taking you through every part of replacing the rear felt seal. I used binder clips from my home office and he used clothes pins to keep the seal in place while gluing it and letting it set. To completely finish this repair, it takes over 24 hours to get your dryer ready for drying again. Steps to repair: you need to get to the dryer drum, watch a video on how to do this to include taking off belt, idler pulley. Remove Drum from the dryer. take off all the old felt seal. take out new felt seal and place around the drum, it will be pretty tight. secure the seal by using clothes pins or binder clips all the way around the drum. this will help you keep the seal on the drum and guide you as you use the glue to bind the seal to the drum. Using the adhesive provided with the felt seal, going around the drum, glue down the seal and re-clip it so the glue gets a good grip. let dry of at least 1 hour. Cannot use the dryer for another 24 hours to make sure the glue dries completely and is ready for the heat. I had already replaced the 2 rollers, 2 shafts, belt, idler pulley and start switch and dryer still squeaked. Then I replaced the rear felt seal. NOW I am replacing the bulkhead because it is worn flat in some places and is warped. I am waiting on the part.

Remove the back panel, then remove the housing around the blower, just slide the housing of to the side, you don't have to take it completly of the machine. Remove the top, and remove the front until you can get to the blower motor. Cut the blower wheel plastic down to the metal nut with a fine blade in a recipricating saw, used a bi-directional broken stud remover socket on the nut that was at the center of the blower wheel and large slip joint plyer on the other end of the shaft. Replace the wheel and put back together. It took about as much time to gather up the tools as it did to fix it.,

First unplug the unit and move to an area where you will have enough room to pull the drum out. I opened the top by sliding a screwdriver in the top left and right edge and popping the clips to allow the top to lean up and back against the wall. I tried to unclip the harness for the door switch but couldn't get the harness to release and instead took out the two screws holding the door switch in place. This is located on the top right inside the dryer door. Once the switch was off I was able to use the socketdriver to undo the two screws on the inside top left and right to release the front of the dryer by pulling up easily and unhooking the bottom front. I was then able to set the front of the dryer aside and begin removing the belt from the tension wheel and motor. Pay close attention to how the two are connected because it will confuse you putting it back together.The belt feeds through the tension wheel and when you release it the tension wheel is just sitting in place and may pop out of place. Remember which slots it sets back into for when you put the dryer back together. We removed the drum, checked the two rollers to make sure they were in good working order. I removed quite a bit of debris from them. Once the drum was out I pulled off the old seal. Took a piece of sandpaper to rub away any excess old adhesive and began installing the new felt seal. Follow the directions carefully to ensure that the seal is sitting on the edge properly before you begin applying adhesive under the edge. I had someone helping me to install the seal but probably would have needed clamps to hold the seal while working it on. It's not a super tight fit but is fitted and once you start putting it on it easily slips off the other side. A couple clamps would hold it in place if you don't have someone to help. Once the seal is on and you apply the adhesive you begin putting the drum back into place first by slipping the belt back over the drum where it can hang until you are ready to put it back on the motor. You have to make sure the seal isn't folded under the back of the dryer. Again a little tricky but if you gently spin the drum slowly counter clockwise a few times you can work it so it's not folded under. Once you see everything is in place you can reconnect the belt through the tension wheel onto the motor. Check drum again by spinning counter clockwise. Install the front of the dryer back on by setting it into the bottom clips. Put the top screws back in. Re-install the door switch making sure it's back in place with the tab sticking through the hole at the top of the dryer door. Bring the top back down. Close the dryer door and plug it back in and everything should be good to go. It wasn't a difficult job at all and I would probably attempt other repairs now that I've done this one. Beware the adhesive is kind of watery when it comes out but you don't need to use a lot under the edge of the seal. Good luck with your repair. I am thankful that PartSelect was so easy to order my parts from and I got the part within a few days. Thanks!

After getting on-line to your site we looked up what the problem could be after receiving the dryer from a friend to transfer from electric to gas to save money. First we thought it to be the ignitor and after receiving it so quickly it still didn't work so went to your site again and found the Flame sensor. They were both defective and now it works wonderful!!! Your site also explains what and how to repair the appliance, which my husband appreciated! We are glad you contacted us because your site did not show that we could send you and e-mail Thanking your company for the excellant service we received. Your prices can't compare to other companies either, we were amazed on the differences. When you say the next day delivery, you mean the next day!!! Thankyou and you are now in my Favorites if ever needing parts for other appliances we own.

I replaced the Cycling thermostat. At first I thought I may have blamed the wrong part because the ohm meter read almost the same for the old and the new part. It took less than a day for the part to come probably because it came from Jacksonville. I haven't guessed how much I saved by not calling a appliance repair.

changed fuse,radiant flame sensor. no help. bought a new dryer. i don't think the gas valuve was opening.everything seemed to be working properly,just no gas.

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.