110697 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110697
91 - 105 of 1418

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Dryer continued to run with door open
18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Colleen from CAPE CORAL, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The video provided by this site on YouTube on this topic was perfect. Saved us a couple of hundred dollars DIY rather than repair man.
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seal for lint filter came off
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Midland, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter
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Door catch on dryer door broke
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lynne from Jamestown, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might c ontact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.
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Dryer tumbled but would not heat
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LARRY from NEWNAN, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen c onnection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.
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Time clock not moving .Not enough heat
16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PHILIP from LONG ISLAND CITY, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.
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Dryer would not turn
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kim K from Hurst, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you
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Loud sreeching and vibration
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from TUTTLE, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I just followed the videos I received with the order and everything went really well. This dryer was a little different than the video, but the process was the same. The HE3 does require 4 drum rollers and I had only ordered 2. However, there was only one bad roller, so I installed both on the back of the drum. The two front rollers are pretty easy to get to if they go bad. The idler pulley was completely worn out with an 1/8 inch groove worn off to one side. PartSelect made this an easy project!
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Dryer would leave clothes damp
15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Luke from Elmira, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling the rmostat in place. It was pretty easy.
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Dryer gasket detached from screen
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Duarte, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.
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Lint has been bypassing the lint filter and building up in the fan (and duct)
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from PINETOWN, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.
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Burner would not go on on my Stack Set Dryer
16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from North East, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!
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The dryer suddenly started running cold - it would turn, the timer worked...but no heat. My wife mentioned that it had been taking longer and longer to dry a load of clothes....
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Geoff from Farmington, CT
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Popped the lower cover off the dryer, found the thermal fuse and thermostat mounted on the heating tube. Removed the screws with a nutdriver, swapped wires to the new parts, and reinstalled. Then I spent 30 minutes vacuuming 13 years worth of lint and crud out of the machine - it was pretty gummed up in spots, which is probably the cause of the failure.
I have a 25 foot run of hose from the dryer outside, so I replaced that with 4" metal ducting. Clothes dry much faster now!!! Maybe my electric bill will go down (fat chance :) )
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Defective Door Switch
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Bedford, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Opened the lid and removed screws hollding switch to cabinet. Had to use magnifying glass to find locking mechanism on the electrical harness. Used small bladed screwdiver from my computer maintenaqnce kit to disengae lock. Hooked up harness. Replaced screws and shut lid. Main difficulty is my near vision. Requires use of a magnifier I a m 80 years old). Your video is great. Gives step by step instructions.
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The Dryer would not get hot.
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.
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Door latch (female part) was broken.
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JEANMARIE from BELLEROSE, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.
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All Instructions for the 110697
91 - 105 of 1418