110672 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110672
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Loud Banging Sound At The End Of Spin Cycle
136 of 544 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Hawley, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!
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Had issues with removing the inner tub
  • Bruce from Yankton, SD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!
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Missing lid hinge bearing
  • Kim from Oviedo, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid an d into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.
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Bad water valve
  • James from Lewisville, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Oredered late Friday afternoon. Got part Monday afternoon.thanks
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Washer leaking
  • Forrest from Oxford, AL
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.
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Washer Had A Continuous Moan And Vibration
  • Roger from Millis, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench set
I disconnected the drive belt from the motor and ran the motor to isolate it from the rest of the mechanisms. This was the noise. I disconnected the water lines and electrical cord,laid the machine front down. I disconnected the motor plug,removed the two bracket to body bolts and lifted the motor out to the bench. I then transferred th e bracket to the new motor and reversed the procedure to install the motor. The most difficult part was raising the machine back up alone,I suggest a helper.
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No spin on spin cycle
  • Thomas from Port Jervis, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispens er in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!
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All Instructions for the 110672
16 - 22 of 22