110671 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110671
46 - 60 of 2060

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Busted Belt & Pulley
43 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from West Haven, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actua lly did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
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Dryer would not heat at all.
42 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lou from Orlando, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Found a service manual on-line for the Whirlpool Duet Dryer. Did the troubleshooting for the problem stated. Found the heater element to be bad (open circuit across heater block). Ordered new element from PartSelect.com and installed. Dryer now works like a charm and I didn't have to call a repairman.
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Dryer handle to open door broke
40 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from DALLAS, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
took the old one off and pooped in the new one!
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dryer makes a lot of noice, bad rolleres
37 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesus E from Palm Bay, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
super fast shipping, got the part in two days, and had it done in 15-20 min, remove the front pannel, remove the belt and tenssioner,took the drum out , took the old rollers , lubed the shafts,replaced the old rollers with the new ones, intalled the drum back, the tenssioner and the new belt, reinstalled the front pannel, and done...easy and fast job, like new dryer, works nice...save some money...the new one will do the same..just dry the clothes.
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Dryer would stop running after several minutes. Once cooled it would start again. Motor worn out and binding.
41 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Angela from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove back cover
Raise top
Remove filter assembly
Remove front cover and drum

Tip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.

Vacuum everything while disassembled

Remember to take your time and not f orce anything and this will go smooth.
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worn out part
44 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Tucson, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
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dryer drum wouldn't turn
36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Peachtree City, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure ou t you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!
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Dryer door cable broken
37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Rochester Hills, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges. ... Read more />
4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.
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Dryer sounded like it had rocks in it when running
34 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Kirkwood, MO
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 w heels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.
Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!
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replaced heating element in my dryer
38 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marlene from Indianapolis, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to do the repair myself. Happily, I was able to and my dryer works like new ! I figure I probably saved about a 100 bucks doing it myself rather than calling out a repair man. Oh, did I mention I am female and didn't have to have a man do this for me. :)
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The dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes.
37 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lauren from Mckinney, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
After my husband disassembled the cabinet and removed the drum, we used a putty knife to remove the old seal and carefully glued the new one in place. (A 2 man job to do it without leaking glue everywhere.) We then replaced the belt, following the picture sent by PartSelect and put everything back. (We put all small pieces in labeled enve lopes so that putting it back together was easy.) Another helpful hint - take a few digital pictures beforehand in the event that you need to see it to put it back together!
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Dryer stopped tumbling
34 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clifford from Mastic, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Pryed the top off the dryer, unplugged the door switch, took the screws out of the front panel, then lifted the drum out. Placed the new belt around the drum and while my wife held it in place and steadied it, I reached underneath and looped the belt through (as per instructions), reassembled and back in business! Reaching under the drum was not that easy....VERY tight space to work in and there was no way I could get both hands through, I almost gave up, but one last try and a couple of good grunts, and it popped into place. Getting the wires back on the door switch was a bit of an ordeal too. Took about 30 mins. but still worth it. I'm sure I saved at least a $100 repair.
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Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.
39 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rod from Galveston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then rep lace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou
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Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow
31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Davie, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, e tc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.
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Dryer belt snapped
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • J. from Oakdale, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.
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All Instructions for the 110671
46 - 60 of 2060