11065202310 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.

Our dryer suddenly stopped heating up, and subsequently would not dry any clothes! The timer would run down to 0, but the dryer would continue to tumble until we manually stopped it. After finding the partselect.com site and checking the 'Parts that Fix' page for our dryer model, I followed the excellent video walkthrough, removed and tested the Thermal Fuse which, sure enough, was bad. I ordered a new fuse and it was delivered two days later (standard shipping). Placing the new Thermal Fuse was simple and I had the dryer running again very quickly, and while it would now stop at the end of the cycle, it was not fully heating up and drying still. I ordered the Cycling Thermostat (next most likely cause, according to the site) and again two days later had it in hand, replaced, and the dryer works perfectly! In the end, our problem was both a bad Thermal Fuse and faulty Cycling Thermostat. The PartSelect site was a perfect tool to not only find the part, but recommend which was most likely to solve the problem, show diagrams of the part locations, and give an excellent video walkthrough of replacing the parts. I highly recommend this site!

The video was the key. I don't know if it is your site, but some site had step by step video instructions making a relatively easy job out of a complicated one.

Disconnected the power ,removed back.Removed the upper thermostat in the heat chamber and replaced. This is the last item to replace as per your recommended list on the trouble shooting page..Very happy to say that the dryer is heating again.See my previous posts,for the parts that I heve replaced.Thanks.

My original problem was due to a blocked/ broken vent tube, which lead to the failure of the thermal cutoff switch. It was super easy to diagnose using the instructions provided on this site (found an open circuit where it was supposed to be closed). The site helped my identify the correct part and the install was super easy.

After disconnecting the wires I tested thermal switch with ohm meter. It tested bad. Found the part number for the replacement kit and ordered from partselect.com. New thermal switch fixed the problem.

After diagnosing the fuse associated with this part as being the problem and ordering it from Sears I came across this web site and compared prices. I found the repair stories and discovered that Whirlpool which is the manufacturer for Kenmore, recommends replacing the thermostat along with the fuse as the thermostat is the likely cause for blowing the fuse. I ordered the thermostat from PartSelect and had it the next day while Sears was like 5 days. If I need repair parts in the future I'll order from PartSelect.

PartSelect website was hugely helpful. The diagram of the dryer was great. I determined my thermal cut-off switch was bad. The part was ordered and arrived in a couple days. It was very easy to change. If your thermal cut off is tripped, don't forget to clean your entire duct work, it is most likely blocked or restricted.

I unhooked dryer and removed the back panel. then followed the directions for installation of the repair parts I ordered. It was pretty easy ,only two small thermostat type parts and about five or six wires.

This was so easy with the Partselect video. I removed the back of the dryer (9 screws) with a pair of pliers. Took a picture of the cycling thermostat with a digital camara, just in case I mixed up the wires. I removed 4 wires and two screws, screwed in the new cycling thermostat and reattached the wires. NOTE: wires can be pretty tight, a pair of needle nose pliers would have helped.

Unfortunately, my wife did not mention that the dryer was not getting hot, only that the timer did not advance. I hopped back online, ordered the heating element and the thermal fuse, debated about paying for a next day delivery and decided against it. I placed the order on a Thursday night at 10:00 p.m. It shipped Friday and arrived on Saturday evening. I was not expecting it until Wednesday!!

The Dryer is working like new, my wife thinks that I'm a genious and I'm just happy I did not have to help lug clothes to the laundromat Sunday!!!
LT

Initially I incorrectly diagnosed the problem... Make sure to test the continuity in all thermostats and heating element to identify which part is not working. Easiest way is to use a meter with an audible ohm continuity setting. Test the continuity on all thermostats/fuses, and element. If there is no continuity chances are that is it.
Good luck!

LOOKED UP DIAGRAM OF WIRING FOR THE MODEL I HAVE AND SAW THE THERMAL KIT. I ORDERED IT PLUS ANOTHER PART I DIDN'T NEED.

Just followed instructions from the parts description....Ordered a cople other parts I did not need but will keep them for future use.

pulled of back and exposed heat element. Made up jumper for themostat and cutout from little sliver of beer can to bypass thermal switches.unit worked so ordered kit to replace non functioning thermostat. Quick delivery and quick instal. I had left back panel off after test . All is well

replaced heat elemant,and all thermastats in dryer....works great

used a multi-meter to determine defective cutout switches and other devices.

found cutout switch was open , ordered on-line and received the part in rapid order.
Installed, and all is well!

I wrote a thank you to their customer service the next day.