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11060096990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Edgartown, MA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell
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inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
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Dryer not heating
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
John from CLARKSBURG, WV
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replaced the heating element. Took the front lower panel off, 2 screws one on each end, removed cover on left side over blower 3 screws and removed cover lower right side over heating element 2 screws. Removed 6 wires plugged into heating element cover, turned heater element cover counter clockwise and pulled out. Removed 1 screw hold
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ing heating element inside of cover, pulled out heating element. Replaced heating element back in cover putting screw back in to hold it. Put heating element and cover into hole in back of dryer turning clockwise to secure. Then put cover holding heating element over the front of it and secured with 2 screws. Put blower cover back secured with the 3 screws and put the front cover back on securing with 2 screws. dryer is heating better than ever.
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Dryer would not heat.
7 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Orlando, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched on-line video on how to disassemble and test heater element, thermostat, and hi-temp shut down. Heater element was open. Ordered new heater element. Re-installed heater element iaw video provided with parts. Video provide was one of the best I've seen. Explanation on releasing access panel was especially helpful.
Other Parts Used:
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Dryer was Noisy
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from HARRODSBURG, KY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I simply followed the video and apart from a couple of areas that were not relevant to my model, everything went exactly as illustrated. The video is excellent and made the repair so easy.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back ... Read more and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back ... Read more and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
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Dryer made squeaking noise, then more of a rumbling noise.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JAMES from NORTH OLMSTED, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pul
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ley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.
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Dryer drum turned hard because rollers were worn
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from STONE CREEK, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.
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Idler pulley seized
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from CREST HILL, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
The pulley is accessible from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the gas line. Remove all the screws. Also remove the small plate that secures the line cord. Lift the back up and out. I was able to avoid disconnecting the water line. Take a picture of the pulley so that you will have a record of the belt routing. Release the spring and rem
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ove and replace the pulley and bracket. Vacuum out the lint. Plug in the dryer to make sure that it works properly before reassembly.
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Taking 90 minutes + to dry one load
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bryan from newington, CT
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Removed the back of the dryer about 8 screws. Removed the Thermostat 250 F and replaced with new. Dries a load of clothes in one cycle on medium. Not bad for a 16 dollar part. I am a computer tech and I am used to taking computers a part but I think most people that are in anyway mechanically inclined and can look at a diagram could d
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o this and save yourself a lot of money.
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Broken Drum Belt
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Garry from Garland, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,
Thanks,
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Unit not spent
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Boonkham from SMYRNA, TN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Just replaced part
Other Parts Used:
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Dryer was squealing
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
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Dryer ran but without heat.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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barbara from SOUTHAMPTON, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the The
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rmal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!
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drier would not heat up
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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PATRICK from PALOS PARK, AL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on
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My idler pully was squealing
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from SAINT CLOUD, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it
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took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
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Element not heating up.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phillip from Breinigsville, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Opened access door, noticed main power wire to heating element was partially melted. This was caused by a bad connection to the drying element, loose. Removed heating element assembly. Cut bad section of wire and added new connection. While doing this the thermostats plastic casing cap came off ! Probably due to exessive heat / resistanc
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e from the bad connection. This confirmed why there was no heat. Intalled new thermostat and and am now good to go !
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