11049 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11049
121 - 135 of 227

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Washer wouldn't drain
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Barrington, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.
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Replace tub to pimp hose.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from LORAIN, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.
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Water filling up in drum when not in use
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Oceana, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Took top off with nut driver, disconnected 2 wires , removed one screw holding inlet value. Then I reversed the procedure putting new one on. Maybe 20 min. Of course unplug power and turn off water supplies before starting the job.
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Water leaking in to tub when off
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from CHERRY VALLEY, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced faulty part
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The washer machine didn’t start the cycle. Had a weird sound. Then f 30 was ther error code. With research internet it was easy to know about the motor dispenser problem
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martha from Pine Island, TX
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.
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machine wouldn't turn on when lid closed
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ellen from NYACK, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly
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hose split
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sam from Sharon, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Pulled washer out from wall removed clamp and old drain hose addnew hose replaced clamp put washer back in plact connected drain to outlet simple operation
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Needed an adapter to run the appliance
5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Yardville, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.
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Tear in door seal
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sean from Palm Coast, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clam p. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.
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Parts fit like a glove
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from OOLTEWAH, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Removed pull start assembly down to the crank. Installed motor housing, motor fan & rewind assembly. All went real good.
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front door leaking
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jim from winchester, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.
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Washer shook and made noise during spin cycle.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Homer from Windham, NH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.
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Washer would not fill
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from TULSA, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.
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New baffle would not fit in slots in washer drum. Measuring there is a slight difference in slot openings as compared to new baffles, so was unable to get them inserted. PartSelext very helpful and I'm am to get a credit. Factory to let me know if need to send new baffles back.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from MARSHALL, VA
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
New baffles would not fit. PartSelect very helpful to get refund.

New baffles should just slide in but did not. Measuring slots and
connection points on new baffles appear to be a difference preventing
connection.
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water inlet valve leak and hose
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Big Torch Key, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
disconect wayer inlet hoses.remove screws that hold the top cover. This will expose the water inlet valve. remove the defective valve and any other associated clamps,hose etc. test run for leaks.
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All Instructions for the 11049
121 - 135 of 227