110207 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110207
91 - 105 of 2246

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tub off center, rubbing on outer tub in spin
21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Rose Bud, AR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.
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Although the motor was running, washer wouldn't agitate or spin.
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Commack, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched betwee n the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.
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Water level was low in the washer
21 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anil from Redmond, WA
  • Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had read many sites describing the issue of water level being low in the washer. Many people had suggested that changing the water level switch fixes the problem. So I ordered the part from PartSelect.com and it came promptly within a few days.

1. Disconnect the power to the washer.
2. Pull on the knob that controls th e water level and remove it.
3. Remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the control panel.
4. Give the front portion of the control panel a small yank and pull it forward, around and upward. (It is hinged on the top, so it swings out)
5. Now you have access to the water level switch.
6. Press the clip and turn the switch a quarter of a turn and it will come off the panel.
7. Pull the wire connected to the switch and remove it.
8. Pull the air tube connected to the switch and remove it.
9. Use the new water level switch and reverse the process.
10. Plug the washer back in an everything works great!
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washer did not agitate
21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Jacksonville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
popped thecap off removed the bolt, pulled agitator off replaced cogs(dogs) then put back together. works like new.whole time took about 10-15 min. saved my self 150.00 by not hireing repair man.
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bad lid swithch, problem with spin cycle
22 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from Beaver Dam, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
remove 2 screws that hold timer section
remove large clips that hold lid section
repace lid swich and put back together
works good
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Lid Switch Asembly broke
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brooks from Plano, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First off I would highly recommend the review by Dennis From Evans City PA. This was quite helpful.

The problem is the lid switch assembly is glued together and the original part came apart and needed to be replaced. The symptoms described by others were accurate so we opted to replace it.

On my machine there are tw o screw on the front corners of the panel where the dials attach to the top of the washing machine. I removed those two screws and by lifting up and forward was able to move the whole thing out of the way.

You should see the connection from the dial panel running down into the wash basin. This is where you will unplug the old switch and replace it with a new one. There are little plastic clips that hold it in place, but you can squeeze them with your fingers to remove it from the panel.

In order to get access to the underside where the wires are connected you will need to remove two clips that hold the back pane to the rest of the sheet metal. In my case I wasn't quite prepared for the entire frame to move but once the clips are removed the back panel is completely removed and you can pull it forward to gain access to the underside.

Once you are able to get underneath you will see a screw that holds the ground wire. This is the one that you may need pliers to remove. There are two screws that hold the switch in place but you can access them at any time. I had already removed the old screws by this point. This should leave the switch disconnected from everything and you can install the new one.

Now just connect everything back together. The two screws for switch where the lid hits. Connect the ground wire and run the the connection back to the top portion where it will connect back up to the top panel.

I would add that there are two thin plastic strips that ran vertically up the back fo the back panel that meet the outer casing. I had to re-seat these before putting the clips back on the top.
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Agitator was barely agitating. Making a clicking noise.
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charmaine from Slidell, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.
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Agitator did not rotate properly
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tenel from The Woodlands, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1. Removed the softener dispenser
2. Removed the cap covering the clutch dogs and the bolt holding it all in place.
3. Removed the bolt holding the two agitator pieces and the clutch dogs together.
4. Removed the two agitator parts.
5. Replaced the clutch dogs.
6. Reassembled and put the bolt back in place.< br />7. Replaced the gasket on the cover that goes over the clutch and bolt.
8. Replaced the softener dispenser

Very easy!
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Top Half of Agitator would not function without appying sideways pressure
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Fredericksburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remo ve black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...
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Washing Machine not draining
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kay from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Watch the partselect.com repair videos for either of the following parts: Part # 3363394 (White Direct Drive Water Pump - two ports) or Part # 285753A (Direct Drive Coupling).
2. After disconnecting the washing machine from the wall, these videos will show you how to disconnect the frame off the washing drum from the front. Disco nnecting the top panel is a little different: pull/pop the two end pieces off, and unscrew the screws.
3. Upon removal of the front frame (per videos), disconnect the electrical device from underneath the lid, using a phillips screwdriver and a nutdriver and/or wrench. Use a flathead screw driver for the clips to remove/replace the electrical wires. No need to splice/cut any wiring.
4. Put everything back together.
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Would not spin
24 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • floyd from Slidell, LA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.
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The washer did not spin fast enough during the rinse cycle to adequately dry the load of clothes
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from EL SEGUNDO, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Socket set
I repaired my Kenmore washing machine replacing the clutch, Motor coupling and cogs. All of the parts came quickly and with good instructions. Best of all there were links to youtube repair walkthroughs. With out these step by step instructions this project would have taken much longer. Now the washer is like new! WATCH THE YOUTUBE PAUSE DO THE STEP AND REPEAT
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The movers broke both water intakes off flush with the back of the machine
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Oak Island, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
took off two screws that held the top part on took the screws that held the back on 4 screws removed the one screw that held the replacement valve put the black mounting plate on the machine replaced screws very simple.
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Top section of agitator not turning
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Stone Mountain, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Found directional gogs broken. Searched washer model # on PS.com and easily found schematic drawing. Received parts in a couple of days. Removed agitator with one nut, and other parts just pulled apart. Replaced the cogs and other parts which were not really broken....just worn. Everything went back together easily, and I was done! Parts Select saved me a LOT of time, and especially money, than if I had called a repair co. THANKS!
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Cold water flow was slow
22 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Garry from Palm Bay, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed old part; exchanged rubber plungers between the hot and cold. Symptoms still the same - so eliminated the need for new rubber plungers (even though they still needed to be replaced). The only item left were the magnetic switches opening and closing the flows. The syphon was replaced due to broken plastic mountings causing the syph on to hang into the drum. Repair was a snap and finding the parts on your site was very easy and parts were there within 2 days at standard shipping. Thank you.
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All Instructions for the 110207
91 - 105 of 2246