110202 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get ... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. ... Read more Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!

unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.

Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined co ... Read more rrectly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.

I unsnapped the top of the mechanism and removed the agitor assembly, (I had already put together the new one,) I just had to unsrew the old one to get it out and screw in the new one. This took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. My husband was away for the week and this was left up to me if I wanted it done. So I (a female) ... Read more decided that I would attempt it.
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"

First I removed the top of the agitator and then used a socket and ratchet to unscrew the bolt and put the new one on and tightened up the bolt, real easy.

I removed the screws holding the control unit down, removed a couple at the rear,
Disconnected the electrical clip that plugs into the top, under the control unit.
This allows enough slack to pivot it ( the control unit) upside down and get it out of the way enough to remove the spring clips that hold the top to the back.
... Read more >Popped out the two clips that hold the back to the top.
Pulled the back out, up until the plastic soap dispenser , (which is attached to the back) hits under the lip of the top.
This does not allow enough room to get to the valves.
I finally figured out you have to lift the entire top up high enough to clear the back while pulling it ( the back) out.
Disconnected the hose clamp, electric connectors, installed the new valves into the supplied mounting plate replaced the valves .
Re -connected the hose and electric connectors and re assembled the back.
The only problem I had was when one of the spring retainers that hold the back to the top popped off and fell inside the unit, which forced me to remove everything including the back bottom screws, which caused the sides to pop off, the mounting ears , which are attached to the back,
Took some finesse but finally retrieved the spring clamp and finished everything back together.
It was a bit tricky keeping the plastic gaskets between the back and the sides from falling inside as I reassembled it.
But all is well, and would have been more difficult without the expierence written by others who posted, on the site.
Thank you to all, for the help.
I hope my efforts will help someone else.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outl ... Read more et drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.

On my Whirlpool washing machine I first pulled off the top cap piece of the agitator. No clips it just popped off.
Second I reached down inside the agitator and pulled straight up on a dome-shaped piece that was a little difficult to get out but it has two metal handles that allowed me to hook my fingers around it. Once I pulled ha ... Read more rd enough it came out.
Third I used my left hand to hold the base of the agitator still while using a socket to break lose the big nut down inside the agitator. After getting the nut off I pulled straight up on the base of the agitator and pulled the whole unit out of the washer. Here's where I got stuck. I wasted about 45min trying to pry open the little plastic tabs down inside the agitator that hold the cam in place. What I finally did that I should have tried first to step on the base with both feet and pull up hard on the agitator cylinder (that has the spiral fins on it) at it popped off and popped off the cam at the same time. After that reassembling everything with the new cam was straight forward (just reversing all the steps).
I hope this helps you.

After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched betwee ... Read more n the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.

First off I would highly recommend the review by Dennis From Evans City PA. This was quite helpful.

The problem is the lid switch assembly is glued together and the original part came apart and needed to be replaced. The symptoms described by others were accurate so we opted to replace it.

On my machine there are tw ... Read more o screw on the front corners of the panel where the dials attach to the top of the washing machine. I removed those two screws and by lifting up and forward was able to move the whole thing out of the way.

You should see the connection from the dial panel running down into the wash basin. This is where you will unplug the old switch and replace it with a new one. There are little plastic clips that hold it in place, but you can squeeze them with your fingers to remove it from the panel.

In order to get access to the underside where the wires are connected you will need to remove two clips that hold the back pane to the rest of the sheet metal. In my case I wasn't quite prepared for the entire frame to move but once the clips are removed the back panel is completely removed and you can pull it forward to gain access to the underside.

Once you are able to get underneath you will see a screw that holds the ground wire. This is the one that you may need pliers to remove. There are two screws that hold the switch in place but you can access them at any time. I had already removed the old screws by this point. This should leave the switch disconnected from everything and you can install the new one.

Now just connect everything back together. The two screws for switch where the lid hits. Connect the ground wire and run the the connection back to the top portion where it will connect back up to the top panel.

I would add that there are two thin plastic strips that ran vertically up the back fo the back panel that meet the outer casing. I had to re-seat these before putting the clips back on the top.

remove 2 screws that hold timer section
remove large clips that hold lid section
repace lid swich and put back together
works good

Removed the softerner dispenser and the inner cap and seal. Removed the mounting bolt. Pulled on Auger and entire agitator came out. I needed to separate the parts. It said to stand on the bottom and pull on the top. I am an "older" woman and after wrestling with it for an hour without success I waited for my nephew to come by to sep ... Read more arate the two pieces. When he did, it popped apart and all the parts went flying. Poor guy thought he had broken it. After conviencing him that that was what I wanted it to do, he left. Dirrections weren't very clear as to what went on first and I didn't have the convience of seeing it before it flew apart. Finally put it together and replaced the bolt. To no avail, something was wrong. My sister was making the same repair at her house across the street so we double teamed it. She came over and told me that I needed to put the Bottom agitator in the machine, then the spacer thrust, then the auger, then the assembled cam and cam dogs, then the bolt. All went well and was working.......so we thought. Started a washer load and the washer started leaking water. Don't know why, still don't know why. All I did was remove everything, put it back the very same way, and it hasn't leaked since. Go figure!