11015962400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job

Washer was leaking -- in part from hoses that had loosened over time due to unbalanced loads and age, and partly from a worn pump -- and not agitating/spinning properly. Fixed hoses, replaced pump and clutch. Unfortunately, when I pulled apart direct drive to replace clutch, the drive shaft started leaking because old seals worn and compromised on disassembly. Have to give credit where due -- YouTube invaluable here -- pulled and disassembled drive shaft, removed old seals, replaced and reassembled. Time consuming, but if you keep track of where things go, not too bad. 3 things I wish I knew in advance: (1) for an old washer you definitely need a spanner nut wrench (like 15-25 bucks online) to remove the spanner nut so you can pull the basket and get to the seals -- no wrench/pliers/vise substitute will do the trick; (2) the shaft seals have metal washers inside the rubber/plastic -- when you're removing the old seals, you might need to chisel (hammer and small flat head screwdriver) the old seals out instead of just pulling out the corroded rubber which will leave the old metal behind; (3) if your time is valuable, try to diagnose all the likely sources of your problem and buy the parts to repair at once rather than doing piecemeal like me. Took me 2 weeks and two complete tear downs to finish a repair that should have taken me an afternoon. I love my local Appliance Parts guy -- he's knowledgeable and usu. has what I need or can get it fast and I like supporting local brick and mortar -- but if time is important to you, taking advantage of online companies that allow you to return what you don't use may save you time.

first remove your washer cabinet from unit. Next on your back left bottom is where your new spring goes. In my case my spring was broke making the washer spin out of balance. Repair with your new spring, and install cabinet back place plug it in and wash a load of cloths. Wow what a difference!!!! job took about 20 minutes. Very Happy

The video that was shown about how to perform the repair was spot on. I wasn't sure exactly what part I needed. I took the advise from you stating that these symptoms I described usually meant that the part I ordered was the correct repair In 65% of the cases. I was delighted to see that when I followed the instruction video, and the motor was removed, there was my coupling, In several pieces. At that point I knew that I ordered the correct parts.
Thank You,
Mario for Eastchester, NY.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

to change it was 1,2,3
thank you guys

Slid the replacement on the lid and it worked like a charm - no more vibration.

Slid off the old and slid on the new part. Actually my wife did it with no help and was rather pleased with her self on not needing any help except ordering it.

Direct drive, no belt. Motor sounds like it's spinning but the agitator is not. Bought the coupling (that goes between the motor and the transmission) and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. Two screws and two clips to open the cover. Two clips to move the water pump out of the way. Two screws and two clips to take out the motor. Replace the coupling and reverse the steps.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

As with any repair job, the hardest part is getting started and figuring out how to take it apart. I first tried to remove the top, by prying up on it,( his has worked in the past). This only broke the plastic retaining clips. I then removed the two plastic covers on each end of the control panel, then the two screws that hold the front of the control panel down. and lastly slid the control panel forward and out of its slots. I then used a 5/16th nutdriver to remove the four screws from the back panel. Now I was able to pull the panel back away from the washer body enough to use needle nose pliers to to remove the four electrical plugs located on the mixing valve. I used a felt tip marker to identify the locations of each plug. I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the one mounting screw that held the valve in place and removed the valve. When the new valve arrived, It took about 15 minutes to re-install the valve and put everything back together.

Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss.
1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor.
2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve".
3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install.
4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft.
5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner.
6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place.
7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough.
8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place.
9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!

Disconnect power & water then drain hoses.
We flipped the washer on it's side to gain access to the bottom. There was no need to take off the back panel. Keep a 5 gallon bucket and a few rags handy for the extra water in the pump line.
Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the brackets holding the motor. It's a little tight on the back bracket. It has a 1/4" hex nut on the back side, so I used a 1/4" drive socket (see: small). Removed the bolts holding the gear case (this makes it a lot easier). Disconnected the pump hose and rotated the motor & gear box and pulled forward. This gives you access to the coupling. Remove the broken part. Clean the area for debris. NOTE: each part of the coupling has 3 fingers (these are what breaks off), so check to make sure you get all broken parts. Insert the new coupling. It has 3 parts; the plastic fittings go on tight and need to be snug to the shaft. Use a screwdriver handle on the center and tap down with a small hammer. Spray silicone on the rubber coupler to allow a little better slide.
Reverse the process. Line the gear box and motor up and push back into the tub assembly. We used 2 people to do this. It's easier to have someone stand over it and hold / rotate the gear box while the other one can align the motor & bolt everything back on.
It took us an hour, however, if you were doing a couple you could get it down to 30 min. flat.
Go wash your clothes!

Too simple. The old one practicaly fell off and all I had to do was push the new one into place. It locked itself in and was ready to use.

No more rattling or noise when it runs now.