11015862400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

DO NOT WATCH THE INSTALLATION VIDEO ON WEBSITE! It's a nice video- just put me through a lot of grief because it did not apply to my washer. It is not necessary to open the control panel to pull out something at the bottom of the timer shaft(that isn't there)...or anything else requiring tools. Just UNSCREW the knob, and pull up on the old dial to remove it. Then line up the large tab on the new dial with the large cutout on shaft, and press it on. Then screw the knob back on. That's it. Finished. 5 minutes with correct instructions.

Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job

Clutch was noticibly worn compared to new part. Direct drive flange had broken, this part should be steel. found a you tube video that was simple to follow. no problems

Washer was leaking -- in part from hoses that had loosened over time due to unbalanced loads and age, and partly from a worn pump -- and not agitating/spinning properly. Fixed hoses, replaced pump and clutch. Unfortunately, when I pulled apart direct drive to replace clutch, the drive shaft started leaking because old seals worn and compromised on disassembly. Have to give credit where due -- YouTube invaluable here -- pulled and disassembled drive shaft, removed old seals, replaced and reassembled. Time consuming, but if you keep track of where things go, not too bad. 3 things I wish I knew in advance: (1) for an old washer you definitely need a spanner nut wrench (like 15-25 bucks online) to remove the spanner nut so you can pull the basket and get to the seals -- no wrench/pliers/vise substitute will do the trick; (2) the shaft seals have metal washers inside the rubber/plastic -- when you're removing the old seals, you might need to chisel (hammer and small flat head screwdriver) the old seals out instead of just pulling out the corroded rubber which will leave the old metal behind; (3) if your time is valuable, try to diagnose all the likely sources of your problem and buy the parts to repair at once rather than doing piecemeal like me. Took me 2 weeks and two complete tear downs to finish a repair that should have taken me an afternoon. I love my local Appliance Parts guy -- he's knowledgeable and usu. has what I need or can get it fast and I like supporting local brick and mortar -- but if time is important to you, taking advantage of online companies that allow you to return what you don't use may save you time.

So i replaced the above parts pulled gearbox put new oil in all looked good but when i tryed it filled started spinning for a few sec.then quit again?was makeing a clicking sound so i layed on the floor and the drive coupling was spinning so i took the water pump off and it started agitating and spinning. found about a 6 in.thin piece of wire in it, dont know where it came from but installed a new pump and it works like a new one !!!

first remove your washer cabinet from unit. Next on your back left bottom is where your new spring goes. In my case my spring was broke making the washer spin out of balance. Repair with your new spring, and install cabinet back place plug it in and wash a load of cloths. Wow what a difference!!!! job took about 20 minutes. Very Happy

to change it was 1,2,3
thank you guys

Honestly, it took more time to figure out how to get at the dang thing than it did to replace the assembly. One screwdriver for the whole project. Very easy to figure out (once I got into the machine casing, anyway).

Direct drive, no belt. Motor sounds like it's spinning but the agitator is not. Bought the coupling (that goes between the motor and the transmission) and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. Two screws and two clips to open the cover. Two clips to move the water pump out of the way. Two screws and two clips to take out the motor. Replace the coupling and reverse the steps.

The video that was shown about how to perform the repair was spot on. I wasn't sure exactly what part I needed. I took the advise from you stating that these symptoms I described usually meant that the part I ordered was the correct repair In 65% of the cases. I was delighted to see that when I followed the instruction video, and the motor was removed, there was my coupling, In several pieces. At that point I knew that I ordered the correct parts.
Thank You,
Mario for Eastchester, NY.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

As with any repair job, the hardest part is getting started and figuring out how to take it apart. I first tried to remove the top, by prying up on it,( his has worked in the past). This only broke the plastic retaining clips. I then removed the two plastic covers on each end of the control panel, then the two screws that hold the front of the control panel down. and lastly slid the control panel forward and out of its slots. I then used a 5/16th nutdriver to remove the four screws from the back panel. Now I was able to pull the panel back away from the washer body enough to use needle nose pliers to to remove the four electrical plugs located on the mixing valve. I used a felt tip marker to identify the locations of each plug. I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the one mounting screw that held the valve in place and removed the valve. When the new valve arrived, It took about 15 minutes to re-install the valve and put everything back together.