1093B3A Roper Wall Oven - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1093B3A
46 - 60 of 74

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Heating Element Bad
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • KEN from OXFORD JUNCTION, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer not hot enough to dry a load of clothes
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Kettering, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My son did the repair and thought it went very well. You saved me about $400 to $800 in that I didn't have to buy a new one. You got this part to me in 48 hours and I appreciated your timely manner. Your service is great! Thanks MZ
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Would not dry the clothes no hot air
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Warner Robins, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I first disconnected the power, dryer vent hose, back panel, disconnected power leads to heater element. Next removed top screw to the heater box, slid the box up and away from lower mount. At this point I was able to remove 1 ea lower screw holding heater element in place. Removed heater element and installed new element. Put everyth ing back in reverse order and started dryer. (Note: Be sure dryer door is closed prior to starting dryer)Yep, I screwed that up. It no "worky" when dryer door is open. Once the door was shut, it worked like a champ.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer stopped heating
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Bradenton, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer was not heating
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Jacksonville, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged dryer. Removed back panel from dryer. Using needlenose pliers, disconnected wires going into heating element housing cover. They basically just unplug. You have to wiggle them a little with the pliers to get them unplugged. The housing cover is the large metal piece on the right side of the dryer. Kind of looks like a cata lytic converter from a car. Popped off housing cover by putting a large screw driver behind it and gently prying forward. The top came loose from the dryer and I then lifted it up off the two tabs holding it at the bottom. I then unscrewed the one screw holding the element to the bottom of housing cover. I slid the element out, inserted the new element, put the screw back in place and then put the housing unit back in place over the two tabs. I replugged all of the wires into the housing unit, replaced the back cover on the dryer and plugged the dryer into the wall receptacle. I turned the dryer on and it heated up right away. I have since dried several loads and it is working perfectly. By the way, I am a 65 year old housewife. If I can do it, anyone can.
Mary McCarthy
Jacksonville, FL
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
heating element broke
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • george from granby, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
ordered on-line monday recieved on tuesday wife drying clothes tuesday evening--------just took out old element and hooked up new one --- very easy
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The dryer was not getting hot
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from Twentynine Palms, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the back panel and took the 2 screws out at the lint screen, lifted the top back so I could remove the bracket holding the heating element can. After this was completed I was able to remove the heating element and install the new one, I had to cut the old connectors off and wire nut the new connector together. After this part wa s completed I reinstaaled the heating element can, secured the top back down,reinstalled the the back panel and pluged it in and wa-la it worked. I also wanted you to know that your prices are about $ 7.00 less than a few of the other part sites I checked on line and one of the sites even said that the part I needed was no longer available. I am sure glad that I kept looking and found your site because you saved me from buying a new dryer, thank you and if I get asked where to get parts I will recommend PARTSSELECT.COM.
Fred
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer stopped heating up
0 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from New Milford, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Located heating element at PartSelect easily.Worked perfectly
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
dryer wouldn't heat up
  • Rubene from Daleville, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
unpluged the unit removed exaust, pulled away from wall about 18 inches. Then leaned unit face down, remove back shield/cover also remove he two wires to elements. At the top of housing where element is in there is a screw that needs to be removed, then lift housing element is in side. Slide foward and lift to remove,to replace go in reve rse.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
heating element burned out
  • William from Hampton, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Blown hearing element
  • douglas from fulton, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed vent hose. Removed back of dryer. Raised top lid of dryer. My model only had a half removable back. Removed screw and spring clip from top of heater chute. Removed wires from heater element. Pulled back top of heater chute. Removed heater chute. Removed screw holding heater element. Removed element. Slid new element in chute. Repl aced screw. Replaced chute on dryer. Replaced spring clip and screw. Reattached heater wires. Set dryer top down in place. Plugged dryer in. Turn dryer on to make sure it was working. Replaced back plate on dryer. Reattached dryer hose. You are finished
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer produced NO HEAT.
  • Robert from New Smyrna Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Following one of your site's more detailed repair suggestions, I began checking the higher percentage likelihood of failures and stepped-through to what my initial suspicion was: The Heating Element (13% ??). I first checked the fuse (rated at 73% probability) (both thermostats were rated very low as possible problems) and immediately w ent to the element. The failure was discovered in short order by checking continuity along the coils until a physical break appeared. The most helpful advice I received was from the pointers to remove the two screws attaching the heat vent/filter plenum in order to lift the dryer top and access the anchor screw attaching the top of the heating element box. I was over-joyed to find that the 29-year-old part number I entered, with the replacement number your system displayed, was PRECISELY the physical size and shape of the original heating element when I opened the package !! To borrow a page from the old PGA TV ad: "(You) guys are good." Many thanks !!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
very low heat
  • bern from levittown, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
it was easy to replace the element
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
No Heat in my Dryer
  • Lori from Marianna, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched the video on utube first, and thought this is a breeze. I'm older and so getting down on my but in the back was what I thought was going to be the hardest part. I removed the screws that held the back plate. Once inside the back I removed the plugs to the heating element with plyers, and the little round thing with nut driver . Ok, what now the video showed where the element just lifted out, mine didn't it was totally encased in the housing. So I felt around to see what was holding it and found a little screw on the backside of the housing, which took some work, and the head lamp so I could see, finally after all that I got the little screw out. The housing for the element still would not come out. so I went back to the video, no help there because the housing on the video just came out and went together about halfway up the housing, mine didn't it was just one piece, so I came here to parts select site and read what other people had said regarding their dryer. I found the information I needed. Thank goodness. I removed the two screws in the front of the lent trap, opened the top of my dryer removed the little Hex nut that held the housing in place, then I went back and removed the heating housing, replaced the element. It was kinda tight, but it fit. I went back to the front put the hex nut back on replace the two nuts in the lent trap closed the top of my dryer, sat back down and replaced that little round thermostate thingy, plugged in the wires to the heating element replaced the back plugged it in and Oh Yeah I had heat. The experience demanded a "High Five" , I felt like a million bucks- this old lady did it herself and the hardest part was having the correct information and getting up and down off the floor. Thanks for all the help!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer stopped heating. Clothes would not dry.
  • John from Matthews, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the dryer out, unplugged from wall, removed vent hose and back covers. Poked hole through the label on the dryer frame to remove the heat element case spring retainer. Pulled the element housing out of the dryer and separated the element from the outer housing and did an ohm test. Test showed an open circuit. I found the burnt spot in the element and ordered a new one. Reinstalled with new element and everything works great.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 1093B3A
46 - 60 of 74