1093 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1093
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Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Dryer wouldn't heat
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allison from Edison, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
According to previously submitted instructions. toughest task was replacing the tiny screw at the bottom of the heating element housing. Felt good to plug it in, start it up and voila, heat. thank you for the part.
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Dryer stopped heating
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Bradenton, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !
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Dryer wouldn't heat
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Weatherford, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I tilted the dryer forward and leaned it carefully against the wall to gain access to the back cover. Used a nut driver to remove 5 screws holding the back cover. Tested the heating element using a multi-meter and it showed an open circuit. I tested the thermostat and a few other switches and they were all ok, so I knew for sure i t was the heating element only. The part arrived in 2 days which was great, cause with 3 kids, dirty clothes pile up fast. I pulled several set of wires for the thermostat, switches etc. marking the wires to make sure I put them back correctly. I loosened the heating element housing by removing one screw at the top (with a clip attached) and one at the bottom. I pulled the housing out, then pulled the element out of it's cover and slid the new one in back in it's place. Screwed the cover back in, put the wires back into place and replaced the back cover. I made a few rookie mistakes during the process, but we won't discuss those. Anyway, bottom line is...the dryer worked perfectly...laundry time.
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Dryier spins but no heat
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hugo from Fairfax, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Checked fuses, breakers, etc. with multimeter to make sure nothing else was broken, then removed the heat element and - voila - it had snapped in the middle (should've done this first!). Searched the Web for the best price; 30-45 minutes removal, diagnosis, etc. 15 min to fix it
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Dryer wouldn't heat
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacqueline from Mill Valley, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the instructions provided by another user... worked like a champ!

Jacquie
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Dryer stopped heating
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • christine from hillsborough, NC
  • Very Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
I read all the other stories and thought this would be a piece of cake. No one mentioned that you had to remove a small piece a metal holding the element casing from underneath the top of the dryer. Very hard to reach that screw. Then no one mentioned that the element casing had to be pulled out of the hole at the back of the dryer before you could remove the element. If i had known these things ahead of time, it would have been a simple project. After all is done, the element was not the problem. Now i think i need a thermostat. lol!!!!!
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Burn out element in test chamber
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Comtech EF Data from Tempe, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
The search to find the elements, for the chamber,was about 3 hours on the internet. The chamber is a walk in design. Made to do trermal shock testing from ( 0 to 50 C) degrees on racks of electronics. Finding out that PartsSelect had the parts was great.
I remove two circuit of heat 10KW ( 2 heaters) & a 30KW (6 heaters) & I nstalled the 8 new heater.
The ramp up temperature is quicker & more percise.
Thak you for your help finding the parts.
It was a pleasure to work with you.

Pat McGill
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install a new heating element
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Herington, KS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First of all the instructions with the part were not very plain to understand so I returned to the web site and read some of the other custormers instructions and was able to figure out how to replace the part. Just had to unscrew the back panel and remove the screws from the heating element housing and then I took the screws out of the l int compartment so I could remove the whole housing to remove the screw that held the heating element to the housing and was easy to cut the eletric wire and conect the new wires and twist the new wire cap on and put everything back together. I was so glad that when I turned the dryer back on I had heat. I am 57 year old women and If I can figure of how to fix my ole dryer than I think anyone can. When I can I will order the part for a new timer. And I hope that my dryer will last another 10 years.
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The dryer was not getting hot
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from Twentynine Palms, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the back panel and took the 2 screws out at the lint screen, lifted the top back so I could remove the bracket holding the heating element can. After this was completed I was able to remove the heating element and install the new one, I had to cut the old connectors off and wire nut the new connector together. After this part wa s completed I reinstaaled the heating element can, secured the top back down,reinstalled the the back panel and pluged it in and wa-la it worked. I also wanted you to know that your prices are about $ 7.00 less than a few of the other part sites I checked on line and one of the sites even said that the part I needed was no longer available. I am sure glad that I kept looking and found your site because you saved me from buying a new dryer, thank you and if I get asked where to get parts I will recommend PARTSSELECT.COM.
Fred
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Dryer stopped heating up
0 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from New Milford, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Located heating element at PartSelect easily.Worked perfectly
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no heat when drying clothes
  • Tracey from Marion, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.
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heating element burned out
  • William from Hampton, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.
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dryer wouldn't heat up
  • Rubene from Daleville, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
unpluged the unit removed exaust, pulled away from wall about 18 inches. Then leaned unit face down, remove back shield/cover also remove he two wires to elements. At the top of housing where element is in there is a screw that needs to be removed, then lift housing element is in side. Slide foward and lift to remove,to replace go in reve rse.
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Blown hearing element
  • douglas from fulton, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed vent hose. Removed back of dryer. Raised top lid of dryer. My model only had a half removable back. Removed screw and spring clip from top of heater chute. Removed wires from heater element. Pulled back top of heater chute. Removed heater chute. Removed screw holding heater element. Removed element. Slid new element in chute. Repl aced screw. Replaced chute on dryer. Replaced spring clip and screw. Reattached heater wires. Set dryer top down in place. Plugged dryer in. Turn dryer on to make sure it was working. Replaced back plate on dryer. Reattached dryer hose. You are finished
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No heat
  • Sherry from Hugo, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took off the back panel of the dryer. Removed the screw holding the drying element in only to discover it would not fit out the bottom of the case holding it because it was too close to the bottom of the dryer. Had to take off the top of the dryer and remove the casing, remove the element, replace it and put the casing back. Not too diffi cult, only two wires and one screw. Did make a couple of rookie mistakes making me backtrack and redo a few things but nothing major.
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All Instructions for the 1093
46 - 60 of 78