1069700516 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to pull out the wire that was sticking out of the side of the 'fridge with the pliers, however I could not get it to come out so I just pushed it in. I then put the new shelf bracket in the opening and set the shelf on it. It was easy.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly

I opened rear wall inside freezer (two screws) cut the wires on old thermostat and removed it. Then I attatched the new thermostat to the existing wires using wire nuts and electrical tape and slid it onto the copper tubing. Re-installed the rear wall. Freezer works like a charm and the refridgerator is also colder. Job completed in twenty minutes and Tim Allen has nothing on me. Mike Milne

just snapped it on,

After unplugging the appliance, I unscrewed the screws in the bottom and the back of the freezer compartment and un-clipped the connector for the ice machine, which i do not have installed. I clipped the pink and brown wires and replace the switch with the new switch. unfortunately, the appliance is still dripping water from the freezer compartment. It worked for a couple of days then stopped working. Still looking for a true FIX.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Removed the 3 screws in the back of the freezer, pulled back the metal back plate on the freezer. Removed 4 nuts on the plastic housing that holds the fan and pulled the housing down. Disconnected the wires, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the fan to the housing. Replaced old fan motor with new fan motor onto housing just as it was before. Reconnected the wires. And tested the motor. Worked great. Re-assembled everything as it was and it was done.

Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

Removed freezer shelving. Removed 3 shelving brackets (dovetailed) by sliding them up off of the small square mounted on the freezer wall. This was a stumbling block until
I figured out how to remove these brackets. Removed three Philips head screw in freezer back panel (24) with nut driver. Removed light bulb cover to get some grip on back panel. Lifted the back panel up slightly and then folded in down a bit then rotated it to the left. Removed 4 hex head (1/4in) screws on fan shroud (23) and brought down into the freezer. Disconnected electrical spade connectors from motor and removed entire unit from freezer to work on motor. Removed two hex head screws (18) holding motor to the brackets. Pushed new fan on to new motor using a 1/4 nut driver and hammer. Mounted motor to old brackets with two screws (18). Placed motor/fan/shroud unit in freezer and reconnected electrical spade connectors. Replaced motor/fan/shroud in freezer with the 4 hex head screws (15), dropping one behind the coils. Just replaced it with a look alike. Turned power back on to check if the fan was operating normally. Put back panel in place and screwed it in place then put shelving clips back into place and then all the shelving. Appears to operating quietly so far. About 30 minutes to complete the job.

Ok its the garage "adult " Beverage chiller.

Easy fix First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires assembly was the reverse. and the beverages never got warm..

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

1. Removed the icemaker door
2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit
3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector
4. Removed the icemaker unit
5. Removed the two screws from the control unit
6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit
7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly

A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.