1069642280 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My fridge did not have icemaker add on. The evap fan is in the freezer behind the back panel. Empty the freezer section (into a cooler) and turn the fridge off. Remove all the shelves in freezer section. Remove the shelf support tabs by lifting them up. use phillips head screwdiver to remove back panel in freezer section. Use nut driver t ... Read more o remove fan shroud. Remove old fan and save the mounting arms. Install mounting arms on new fan and install fan. Install shroud, back panel, shelf mounts and shelves. Thats it!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Like you video

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thic ... Read more k. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

This was really easy to do thanks to comments posted on the Partselect web site and the instructions included in the package. I removed three screws, unplugged the wire harness using a small screw driver to "unlock" the harness, removed the old ice maker assembly from the freezer, and reversed the process with the new assembly. Saved th ... Read more e valve and other parts for future use. The new unit started making ice within an hour or two. Very cool!

Took three screws out of the old ice-maker, disconnected the electric pigtail in the freezer, shut the water off, removed two mounting screws on the water valve (back & bottom of fridge), used a wrench to remove the water lines.
Put new valve on, reattached water lines, connected electric pigtail to ice-maker, put 3 screws back in ... Read more to mount ice-maker, turned the water on and had ice in about 6 hours.
VERY EASY - All the parts for various installation were included and the instructions are easy to follow.