10651713410 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Unplugged appliance. Using a small putty knife I moved the switch out far enough to grab it with pliers. Moved wiring to new switch and pushed into place after testing.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.

I shut the unit off for about ten hours and when I turned it back on and set the temperatures for the freezer and refrigerator it has been working great.I will keep the part in case it happens again.

replaced plastic water line with stainless steel water line, then removed wet cover, cleaned water in bottom of refrigerator, then dried it with a portable heater. When dry, installed new cover.

Had to Test Seloind. It Was OK. Then tested Motor Motor For Ice Maker. It Was Bad. Went Online Looked Up Parts For My Unit. They Were Shipped in a Timely Manner, only a few days. Installed parts in less than 15 minutes. Went very easy. Thank You

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

Turn off water supply. Remove cardboard cover. Loosen metal supply line. Remove valve from edge of refrigerator. Remove electric connection, plastic water line and main supply line. Install new valve in reverse order... check for leaks.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.