Product Description
Oven Igniter Specifications
This part is used to light the oven for the bake or broil.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Little to no heat when baking | Will Not Start | Gas igniter glows | but will not light
This part works with the following products:
Range.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric.
Part# WB13T10045 replaces these:
AP3202322, 1085573, WB13T10045
Customer Reviews
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Martin A - September 28, 2021
Verified Purchase
Fast shipping and perfect part
The part came in fast and in perfect condition. Part is a bit more expensive but when you need it, reliability and the fast shipping comes out first.
Richard M - November 25, 2020
Verified Purchase
The part fit and worked perfectly
The part arrived in good time I did however still had to pick-up at the courier as they somehow don't deliver to rural. There was more disassembly to replace than I expected, but still took only an hour from start to finish.
Robert B - October 31, 2020
Verified Purchase
Great part
Fast delivery...part arrived in good condition and worked perfectly.
Alan G - June 24, 2020
Verified Purchase
Part was great!
Part came immediately. Part was as described. Installation was easy, part fit perfectly. Great.
John T - June 1, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
The part came fast. Thanks
Janet M - April 12, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Since my gas oven started to take longer and longer to ignite, increasingly with poofs (igniting accumulated gas) without firing up, I gathered after some research that the igniter was no longer getting hot enough. So I ordered the part which arrived within a few days as promised. I immediately set to work to replace the part and followed the instructions from the various tutorials available on Y-tube. The whole process was remarkably easy. What worried me was that many had mentioned that the two igniter securing screws broke off while undoing them. So I applied ample penetrating oil and the screws easily came out, in fact they looked good enough to reuse. All in all thanks to all reviewers and PertSelect,I now have an oven that works like new.
Tammy P - November 21, 2018
Verified Purchase
Quick delivery works great
Part arrived quickly and works great
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.0 / 5.0, 16 reviews.
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Oven wouldn't heat
After removing the door and the lower pan cover, I removed 4 screws holding down the flame spreader. Once the flame spreader was off, I was looking at the two screws that hold on the igniter assembly. For some reason, these seemed to be the worst part of the repair. One screw broke off at the head as soon as I tried to loosen it. The other was apparently stripped during the initial installation. Due to lack of space to fit the dremel tool in the area, it took quite some time to remove the second screw. Once I finally got those removed, it was a piece of cake. The assembly easily pulled out approximately 4 inches to disconnect the plug. The new plug was easy to insert and push back in the cavity behind the oven. I had extra sheet metal screws, so the installation of the new assembly took less than 10 minutes. As I said, the worst part was the stripped screw and lack of space to get the proper tool to remove it.
Other Parts Used:
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Robert from Canton, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Oven wouldn't work, broiler, stovetop would
LIke the other posters, this should have been an easy fix. From internet research my official self-diagnosis was that either the ignitor didn't work or there was a problem with a temperature sensor or control module. At $70 for the part vs. $230 to get a Sears repair main out here (in two weeks time?!), I rolled the dice and decided to order the part.
Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.
After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.
Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.
All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.
I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).
In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.
Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...
Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.
After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.
Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.
All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.
I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).
In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.
Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...
Other Parts Used:
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Brian from Vergennes, VT
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set
80 of 82 people
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Oven would not heat yet broiler worked.
Self-diagnosed the repair over the internet. The "hardest part" was figuring how to remove the oven door (needed instruction manual for that one). Once off, four screws to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven compartment revealed the igintor assembly. The two screws securing the assembly snapped off due to corrosion, but aside from that literally plug-in and replace. PartsSelect site was the least expensive and the part arrived the next day as indicated. All my repairs should go this easy.
Other Parts Used:
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Barbara from Wayne, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
23 of 25 people
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Oven Igniter Died
The only difficult part of the repair was getting the original screws out of the old igniter and oven gas arm. Once I drilled the old screws out the repair was done within 20 minutes.
Other Parts Used:
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CHRISTOPHER from REDMOND, OR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
22 of 23 people
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Oven would not heat up!
First remove the oven door. Then remove the grills,and finally the bottom cover plate exposing the oven igniter assembly.The only tool needed is a 1/4 inch socket to remove approximately eight screws.The igniter is a plug type device having a male amphenol.Pull the wires towards you to expose the connector,make the repair being careful to shove the connector back from whence it came and reassemble all the parts..Done!
Other Parts Used:
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Joseph from Poughkeepsie, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
13 of 13 people
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Oven wouldn't ignite, but everything else worked.
There are 2 screws to remover to replace the element. That was the hard part as they were very stubborn to get out. I have to use a flexible bit and an impact driover to get them loose. Other than that, the replacement was smooth as silk !!
Other Parts Used:
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Rick from Kent, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
12 of 13 people
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Would not bake
Removed racks, removed bottom cover ( slides out)- removed burner cover and burner- ignitor screws were both stripped where they attatch to burner so i just drilled them out and installed the new ignitor with two nut, bolt lock washer combos. Re-assembled and mamma was happy to bake again!
Other Parts Used:
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reed from buchanan, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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broiler lights but oven won't light
remove the oven door to remove the lower oven tray next remove the four 1/4 in. head screws from the burner cover to get access to the igniter remove the two 1/4 in.screws with small socket, wires must be pulled out from behind the oven rear wall to get access to the connector plug, disconnect and attach new connector to plug and tuck wires and plug back behind oven insulation reinstall screws in igniter bracket at this time i tried the oven,it lit , reinstall burner cover,oven tray and oven door .
Other Parts Used:
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leo from staten island, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 10 people
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Oven was not preheating, broiler and burners worked
Removed racks and inner oven casing. Had to slide oven out and disconnect power. The screws holding ignitor on the inside were stripped so that delayed us a bit. We used impact drill to remove other parts but socket set would work too. Fixed the problem and we were up and running in no time.
Other Parts Used:
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Brooke from Suwanee, GA
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
9 of 10 people
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Oven failed to heat up
Turn gas off. Remove front door by pulling the lock covers back and pulling door up. Remove all cooking racks. Push back and lift enamel cover plate. Remove heat shield. Either use crosstip screwdriver or nutdriver (ratchet driver works as well, all the ovens have a different size nut/screw so check your size) and remove ignitor. Remove small shield and gas burner tube from pan. Remove all nut/screws from pan, lift up and pull towards front (ignitor can not go through pan) exposing electrical connector behind insulation. Disconnect and pull through pan. Replace pan (I had to replace older pan due to rust) and push connector from new ignitor through hole and connect to plug. Push pan in attach new ignitor (easier) to gas tube burner and place burner back through hole. Reattach shield and burner to tube to pan. At this point I tested the new ignitor which worked perfectly. Turn off oven. Place heat shield over burner tube. Replace enamal cover plate. Replace oven racks. Place door and lock holders on the hinges. Easy. BTW I am 70 and it took me just at 25 minutes with set up for tools, door, rack and enamel cover removal, heat shield removal and then the more labor intensive nut/screw removal, old ignitor and gas burner tube removal, pan removal, new ignitor replacement, new pan replacement, gas tube with shield attachment, heat shield attachment, enamel cover, grill racks and door attachment. Perfect parts fit well work well.
Other Parts Used:
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patrick from BARNWELL, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Questions and Answers
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Corey
December 3, 2018
Do you have a video on igniter changing on GE profile
Hi Corey, Thank you for the question. Here is a link to one of our videos for a GE flat style oven igniter. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTn1LxM5Rc4
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Melanie
October 12, 2017
The plug is completely burned away. It looks as if the wires burned right thru and the wires are charred where the plugs were. Is it safe to hard wire the connection in the back of the oven?
For model number JGS905SEK1SS
Hi Melanie,
Thank you for your question. It should be safe. You could your wires as well if they look like they have been burned and could possibly be a problem. Good luck with your repair.
2 people found this helpful.
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Donna
April 25, 2018
How do I find directions to install the oven igniter I ordered. It was for a GE profile gas range. Wb13t10045 and ps953863
Hi Donna, Thank you for the question. Here is a link to one of our videos for a GE flat style oven igniter. Hope this helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTn1LxM5Rc4
2 people found this helpful.
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Peter
August 16, 2021
When turning the oven on the igniter glows bright and lights the gas but when it starts glowing it emits a strong odor that is very toxic smell, more of a burnt plastic?
For model number Jgsp28sen1ss
Hello Peter, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the igniter and the wiring for any visible damage. We also recommend checking the area where the igniter lights for any debris or damage. Hope this helps.
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Ken
January 20, 2018
I am looking for the wire harness for the igniter for my oven. The plug is melted beyond repair. It was wire nutted to the igniter from the melted plug by someone in the past. I omitted the plug and can just use the wire nuts but I would rather do it correctly and replace the entire harness if available. Can you help?
For model number JGSP28BEK4BB
Hello Ken,
Thanks for your question. The burner wire harness for the igniters is part number PS1016195.
I hope this helps.
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Cindy
November 20, 2018
My gas range oven will not turn on, but the broiler will
Hello Cindy, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!
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Carlos
October 22, 2017
My oven is not baking glow stick , or heating element is working should i take a chance and buy a new one
For model number JGSP28WEK1WW
Hi Carlos,
Thank you for your question. You could test your over igniter with a multi meter to make sure that it is the part that is giving you issues before ordering if you would like. It is likely that it is the part that is giving you trouble. Good luck with your repair.
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Stanley
January 19, 2018
The broiler will not lite, but the oven works. Can you help?
For model number JGSP28SEK5SS
Hello Stanley,
Thanks for your question. You may wish to test the temperature sensor and the oven igniter with a multimeter to see if both parts have continuity. Replace either of them if they lack continuity. The temperature sensor is the more common reason for the broiler not working.
I hope this helps.
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A
February 7, 2019
The disconnect plug that connects the harness to the oven igniter is melted. What is the part number for the harness
For model number JGSP28SEK5SS
Hello A, Thank you for contacting us. Upon reviewing the model I show that the wire harness is not available separately form the igniter itself. That part number is PS952863. I hope this helps.
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Roslyn
August 6, 2019
When turning on the burner, electrcial igniter it continues to click ,will not turn off
For model number JGSP28SEN2SS
Hello Roslyn, thank you for your question. That issue is caused by either a bad spark module PartSelect Number: PS2345599 or switch harness PartSelect Number: PS953098. We would recommend replacing both parts. I hope this helps!
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS952863
Manufacturer Part Number: WB13T10045
Manufacturer Part Number: WB13T10045
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