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Product Description
Door Catch Kit Specifications
This kit contains two door strikes, and three door catches to service dryer doors that have one or two catches.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Door Catch Kit
![Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Door Catch Kit Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Door Catch Kit](https://img.youtube.com/vi/za8cO2XAmec/maxresdefault.jpg)
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Door won’t close | Door Pops Open | Lid or door won’t close
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo, Dishwasher, Laundry Accessories.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Roper.
Part# 279570 replaces these:
AP3094183, 3493, 279570, 14205029, 14205577, 14210022, 2003, 236876, 23687600, 236877, 23687700, 241282, 241286, 241890, 26000279570, 261847, 263067, 279280, 279337, 279469
...
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, 279570VP, 291949, 3390239, 3392538, 3398175, 342295, 347813, 4165234, 51651001, 51655001, 690081, 690082, 693717, 694343, 696144, 8208, 830751, 834767, 834813, 834943, 834944, FSP279570
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Customer Reviews
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
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Mikal B - December 24, 2023
Verified Purchase
Solved a long term pain in the butt
Works great. Even came witth a spare female catch and the part to fix the male side if that becomes necessary.
Andrew S - April 27, 2023
Verified Purchase
Fit perfectly, installed in less than 3 minutes
Fast delivery as promised
Jacques M - February 6, 2023
Verified Purchase
got the proper parts and all is good
delivry was qick right parts easy to install and with a video on how to do it was a snap thanks
ANTHONY H - February 2, 2023
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
So far so good. Until i put the two new door catches in, i didn't realize how bad the old ones were. Anyways, all seems fine now. Thank you. Nice quick delivery as well
Jared N - November 26, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy fix
The part arrived quick and fit exact
Cassidy H - November 4, 2022
Verified Purchase
Worked great!
The part was here quickly & worked exactly how we needed it to. It was such a quick fix and so user friendly!
Frank C - October 12, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy to install.. Did what it was supposed to.
Quick delivery. Exactly as described. Two thumbs up.
Minh N - September 26, 2022
Verified Purchase
Worth getting OEM!
I got an Amazon substitute because of 1 day shipping to hold us over until this piece came in the mail. The Amazon part failed within a week and I replaced it with the proper manufacture's part when it arrived within a couple days and - surprise surprise - works as intended. Thank you for the quick shipping and especially for a working part!
Graham M - September 25, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy Peasy
out with the old...in with the new. 2 flat head screwdrivers popped the old one out.
Geoffrey B - July 30, 2022
Verified Purchase
The right part with installation video came quickly. Worked like a charm.
The right part with installation video came quickly. Worked like a charm.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.6 / 5.0, 73 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
Other Parts Used:
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Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
672 of 730 people
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Door catch broken; lint filter handle had come off
Removed some screws and partially dismantled the door so I could get the old catch out. Inserted the new catch, and put the screws back in. Saved me an $80+ service call.
On the filter, I had to use pliers to remove the old one because the handle had broken off. Did that, and inserted the new one. Done. Sears had been unable to supply me with a new filter.
On the filter, I had to use pliers to remove the old one because the handle had broken off. Did that, and inserted the new one. Done. Sears had been unable to supply me with a new filter.
Other Parts Used:
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Daniel from Wichita, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
448 of 475 people
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Door wouldn't latch.
I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!
Other Parts Used:
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Melody from North Las Vegas, NV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
202 of 282 people
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dryer wouldn't dry
un pluged it then removed the hose took the back off took out the 2 screws out of each part replace it with the new parts , then pluged it back to make sure it would work and it did the very first time. i'm 1 happy roper owner.
Other Parts Used:
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JEFFERY from ABINGDON, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
110 of 191 people
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dryer door would not stay shut
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.
Other Parts Used:
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Pam from Woodbridge, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
103 of 106 people
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door kept coming open dryer shuts off
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in
Other Parts Used:
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RONALD from SALMON, ID
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
95 of 176 people
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Door won't latch
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks
Other Parts Used:
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Jill from bellevue, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
95 of 156 people
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No Heat When Drying
I followed the tips from the repair video. Easy as 1-2-3. I changed both the heating element as well as the thermal cut off. Went ahead and repaired the door catch. Brand new dryer for the next 10 years. I do advise to pull out your shop vac and remove the tons of lint that accumulates in the bottom. A definite fire hazardous. I do attest that this web site is the best by far.
Other Parts Used:
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DAVID from CHARLOTTE, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
60 of 70 people
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Ravages of time and 7 children.
Dryer was making a thump-thump sound as it turned and door had to be held shut with a prop rod or it would pop open all the time.
First I reviewed the exploded diagrams of my model on the PartSelect website. I kept referring to it as I went.
Two screws held the console down, I removed those and disconnected all the wiring to the console and set the console aside. I popped the top from the front after removing the ground wire that the console had hidden. Oops ... forgot the screws holding the filter enclosure to the top panel. I removed them, then the top came off of the rear hinge-like things.
I turned the drum by hand and confirmed that it was "thump-thumping". There were two internal screws that held the front panel and door to the side panels, I removed them and then the front panel/door assembly buckled away from the drum slightly. I had to disconnect the wires from the door switch and remove the wire retainer from the front panel.
The front panel/door lifted slightly and came off of retainers to the side panels near the floor. The drum was now suspended on the two rollers, belt tensioner pulley, and motor pulley. I removed the belt from the tensioner and motor and removed the drum.
I could see that one of my drum support wheels had a chunk melted or gashed out of it. Every time the divoted portion contacted the drum, it made a thump. I also noticed all the stuff that the kids had dumped in the dryer by lifting the front of the top panel, thinking it was a good hiding spot. The stuff included crayons, beads, assorted spare change, and a package of peanuts that had broken open.
I took this opportunity to vacuum out the interior of the dryer. Wow.
One of drum support roller axles has a front support. Both are bolted into the interior panel with a washer and nut. I wanted to remove both axles to replace the support wheels, so I crawled behind my dryer (by climbing over my washing machine).
I had to remove the flexible vent and the rear panel cover to access the roller axle nuts. But one of the axle nuts was covered by the dryer filter enclosure, so I had to take it loose. Boy am I glad that I did. It was chock full of caked together lint and more crud that the kids had shoved down the filter hole when the filter wasn't in place. I cleaned it and removed the axle nuts.
I had to remove and replace these funky little plastic triangles that acted as retainers for the drum support wheels. It was difficult and I eventually had to use pliers to help. I swapped drum support wheels, installed the new plastic triangles and reinstalled the axles, filter enclosure, back panel, and flexible duct (this involved all sorts of tools and several trips back and forth over my washing machine).
I installed the drum, making sure the felt was not bent the wrong way and that the drum support wheels were in the drum groove. To rethread the drum belt I had to lay on the ground and hold the drum in position with my foot while guiding the belt with two hands. Once the belt was properly threaded, the drum would dangle in position, but I used the prop rod to support if firmly while I worked on the front panel.
The front panel was in sorry shape. I replaced both hinges, cleaned the area between the door and the front panel that cannot be reached easily, and replaced the door support wires and guides, reattaching their springs. I also replaced the door retention hardware. (Note: pliers recommended by my poor cut fingers).
I installed the front panel to the side panels by sliding it onto the two lower supports while holding the drum in position. I reconnected the door switch and wire retainers. I screwed the upper screws from the side panels to the front panel.
I popped the top panel back in place, routing the wiring through and reconnecting the grounds. I rewired the console and slid it back into position. I screwed down the console and reattached the filter enclosure to the top panel.
I plugged it in, turned it o
First I reviewed the exploded diagrams of my model on the PartSelect website. I kept referring to it as I went.
Two screws held the console down, I removed those and disconnected all the wiring to the console and set the console aside. I popped the top from the front after removing the ground wire that the console had hidden. Oops ... forgot the screws holding the filter enclosure to the top panel. I removed them, then the top came off of the rear hinge-like things.
I turned the drum by hand and confirmed that it was "thump-thumping". There were two internal screws that held the front panel and door to the side panels, I removed them and then the front panel/door assembly buckled away from the drum slightly. I had to disconnect the wires from the door switch and remove the wire retainer from the front panel.
The front panel/door lifted slightly and came off of retainers to the side panels near the floor. The drum was now suspended on the two rollers, belt tensioner pulley, and motor pulley. I removed the belt from the tensioner and motor and removed the drum.
I could see that one of my drum support wheels had a chunk melted or gashed out of it. Every time the divoted portion contacted the drum, it made a thump. I also noticed all the stuff that the kids had dumped in the dryer by lifting the front of the top panel, thinking it was a good hiding spot. The stuff included crayons, beads, assorted spare change, and a package of peanuts that had broken open.
I took this opportunity to vacuum out the interior of the dryer. Wow.
One of drum support roller axles has a front support. Both are bolted into the interior panel with a washer and nut. I wanted to remove both axles to replace the support wheels, so I crawled behind my dryer (by climbing over my washing machine).
I had to remove the flexible vent and the rear panel cover to access the roller axle nuts. But one of the axle nuts was covered by the dryer filter enclosure, so I had to take it loose. Boy am I glad that I did. It was chock full of caked together lint and more crud that the kids had shoved down the filter hole when the filter wasn't in place. I cleaned it and removed the axle nuts.
I had to remove and replace these funky little plastic triangles that acted as retainers for the drum support wheels. It was difficult and I eventually had to use pliers to help. I swapped drum support wheels, installed the new plastic triangles and reinstalled the axles, filter enclosure, back panel, and flexible duct (this involved all sorts of tools and several trips back and forth over my washing machine).
I installed the drum, making sure the felt was not bent the wrong way and that the drum support wheels were in the drum groove. To rethread the drum belt I had to lay on the ground and hold the drum in position with my foot while guiding the belt with two hands. Once the belt was properly threaded, the drum would dangle in position, but I used the prop rod to support if firmly while I worked on the front panel.
The front panel was in sorry shape. I replaced both hinges, cleaned the area between the door and the front panel that cannot be reached easily, and replaced the door support wires and guides, reattaching their springs. I also replaced the door retention hardware. (Note: pliers recommended by my poor cut fingers).
I installed the front panel to the side panels by sliding it onto the two lower supports while holding the drum in position. I reconnected the door switch and wire retainers. I screwed the upper screws from the side panels to the front panel.
I popped the top panel back in place, routing the wiring through and reconnecting the grounds. I rewired the console and slid it back into position. I screwed down the console and reattached the filter enclosure to the top panel.
I plugged it in, turned it o
Other Parts Used:
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John from Plymouth, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
52 of 245 people
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Dryer door catch broke
The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.
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Bill from Houston, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
35 of 49 people
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Joanne
July 20, 2017
When I open my dryer it stays running until I turn it off manually. Is that indication that I need the door latch kit? Or do I start somewhere else
Hi Joanne, it sounds like you need to replace the door switch, it is part number WP3406105. Best of luck with this repair!
54 people found this helpful.
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Eric
January 27, 2018
My latch kit did not come with instructions on which catch to use on my dryer, 025, 022, or 020? Please send the instructions that indicate which one to use as the video indicates.
For model number LE5800XSN
Hello Eric,
Thanks for your question. Number 020 is the yellow catch. Number 022 is the blue catch. Number 025 is the green catch. If the catch you are replacing has an 18 on it or if it is silver, use the 020 yellow catch. If nothing matches check if your dryer has one catch, and make sure it is not a 27" Wide Laundry Center or a Commercial Stacked Pair and if that is true, use the 020 yellow catch. If it is either of those types of machines, use the 025 green catch. If your dryer has two catches, use the 022 blue catch on the top and the 020 yellow catch on the bottom.
I hope this helps.
30 people found this helpful.
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Jeanie
July 20, 2017
I opened up my dryer and it seems like I have 2 latches on this model. I know I require a latch kit because mine is malfunctioning but do I need two kits?
Hi Jeanie, to make this installation you will only need one latch kit, and you can find it here 279570. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
23 people found this helpful.
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Erin
December 26, 2017
My dryer will not start when i push the start button. I have already replaced the door switch, but that did not fix the problem. Here is what's happening; when i have the dryer set to start and close the door, the dryer makes a soft whirring/clicking sound. When i push the start button, there is a loud click, the whirring stops, but the dryer does not start. Do these symptoms give any indication of which part might be faulty?
For model number GEQ8811LL0
Hi Erin,
Thank you for your question. There are a couple of other parts that you would check to see if they are working correctly. The first part I would actually suggest testing is your start switch. You may also want to test your thermal fuse as well. You can test both parts with a multi meter to see what the continuity is on them. If both of those parts are fine you might go on to test your thermostats and your element as well. If those parts are fine then it may be your timer that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
10 people found this helpful.
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Gerald
November 29, 2017
I have to slam the door to stay shut or it pops out and the drying cycle stops. When I took the door apart there was a loose spring rolling around inside the door. Do you have any idea where that may have come from? I think someone may have put too much weight on the door and forced it past the normal stop position. I will order the latch anyway but I am wondering if anything else could be wrong? In addition, the light burned out. Does it require the exact replacement bulb?
For model number WED5300VW0
Hello Gerald,
Thanks for your question. The door catch kit would be the most likely solution for your problem based on your description. As for the bulb, we are only showing one bulb that is compatible with your machine based on the manufacturer's part list.
I hope this helps.
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Laura
October 2, 2017
Dryer wont power up.Door latch has been hard to close lately.Could my latch be bad?I have the option to switch the way the door opens.Can I trade the latches?
For model number MEDB980BW0
Hi Laura, Thank you for the question. The catch can be swapped to the other side yes but it sounds like there could be an issue with the door switch,PartSelect Number PS3653055. If the switching the catch did not fix the issue I recommend replacing the switch. Hope this helps!
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Morgan
July 31, 2019
I received the kit, but there are no instructions. The dryer i have is a Kenmore model 11069902890, and i believe the door catch/strike set part number is 236876. Which catch part does that correspond to?
For model number 11069902890
Hi Morgan, thank you for your question. These would be the instructions from the manufacturer: This kit contains (2) door strikes and various door catches. Some dryers may use more than (1) catch. Note numbers stamped on the catches and/or color of the spring steel, 20 (yellow), 22 (blue) or 25 (green). Match the number and/or color, of the catch being replaced with the catch supplied in the kit. If the catch you’re replacing has an 18 stamped on it or is silver in color, use the catch stamped with 20 (yellow) for replacement. The (2) door strikes contained in the kit are the same. Please replace the door strike(s) with the appropriate number of door catches being used for this repair. If you cannot match the number on the catches, match the catch(es) by the following: 1. If your dryer has one catch and is not a 27” Wide Laundry Center or Commercial Stacked Pair, use the catch stamped with 20 (yellow) for replacement. If it is a 27” Laundry Center or Commercial Stacked Pair, use the catch stamped with 25 (green) for replacement. 2. If your dryer has 2 catches, use the catch stamped with 22 (blue) on the top and the catch stamped 20 (yellow) on the bottom. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
6 people found this helpful.
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Warren
October 29, 2017
Everything work but it will not come on
For model number Wed9050xw1
Hi Warren,
Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the door catch and strike, the internal bias thermostat, the drive belt, the idler pulley and the drive motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Peggy
November 7, 2017
The latch on my Whirlpool dryer: For the door to close, we have to keep moving the latch back and forth. If i need a model # replace this, where do i find the model number?
Hi Peggy,
Thank you for your question. Here is a link that will help you find your model number: https://www.partselect.com/Model-Number-Locator+5+repair.htm . Good luck with your repair.
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Pius
July 20, 2017
My dryer has a buzzer on it and when the cycle is done it will let us know but it wont turn off even when I open my dryer door. The only way to stop it is if I leave my door open for a little while and then it will clue in and turn off. What could be causing this? Latch kit?
Hello Pius, if you are experiencing problems with your buzzer shutting off, that would be a motor switch issue. It sounds like the motor switch is sticking/stuck and the only way to correct that would be to replace the motor. You can find the motor for your model here 279827. I hope this helps!
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This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS334230
Manufacturer Part Number: 279570
Manufacturer Part Number: 279570
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