Water Inlet Valve - 120V 60Hz

Remove the bottom cover plate. Disconnect the water inlet and black rubber hose. Remove 2 mounting screws. Pull out electrical connector. Reverse order. Be sure to get the brass inlet connector really tight so it won't leak. I did the final tightning after the part is mounted. Not a bad repair at all. The only problem was that it leaked in the first place and messed up my subfloor and laminate flooring.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

I ran the dishwasher with the door slightly open by wedging a piece of plastic in the door slot, so the machine thought the door was closed. after this i noticed that the water coming into the washer was very slow. i the taken the front panel off the bottom. which gave access to the main inlet valve. Bit akward as very little space. Anyways i figured that the water wasnt enough and so i put two warm pots of water in. straight away the jet came on and spraying the dishes. ithen checked the pipe to see if blocked or bent. and so after that i knew it was the valve.(( so one last test after the valve was off i turned the water supply on (making sure a caught the water) to see if there was enough pressure in the pipe also. and there was plenty)). Easy to undo the valve- but as i said you may need to lye on the floor if it is fitted in. (ps make sure you turn of the water first) undo the flexi pipe with plyers and slide off (should be a squeezable ring). unclip the two wires remembering which colour go on top and bottom- then twist the valve off..BUT make sure you support the pipe behind- else you may break it or crack it, if the valve is hard to unscrew. then simply replace with the new valve(apply two rounds of water tape-just incase) and once aligned up as before clip the pipe back on making sure there are no kinks in the pipe-and then replace the two wires. (Test the machine before closing up) Finally place all fitting to the dishwaher and you're ready to go!!!
saved tons of money with this fix. only issue was that the valve was slightly different and the offset was 90degrees off...(not an orginal part..) but hey it works!!!

I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

Remove water supply, take off two screws, attach new part reconnect water supply.

Unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet and pulled out about 1 foot. Took bottom plate off of dishwasher. Undid clamp on hose of discharge of inlet water valve and removed hose. Shut off water to water inlet valve and removed. Took wiring clip off of water inlet valve. Removed 2 screws holding water inlet valve in place. Installed new water inlet valve in reverse order.

remove vanity panel
disconnect copper supply line from valve
remove valve mounting screws
rotate valve to access hose clamp
loosen clamp and slide up rubber tubing about 2 inches
pull hose off barbed fitting and remove old valve
reverse order with new valve

turned off electricity, pulled dishwasher out about a foot, turned off water too dishwasher, removed inlet valve and replaced it with new.

Easy as pie. Just turned off water and electricity. Disconnected hoses and wires and replaced with the new valve.