Hinge Pin

Door locked light did not come on and did not have 120 VAC across the Wax Motor. Also the Wax Motor did not extend out to make contact with the Door Lock, Spin Enable Switch. General guidance is to replace drive belt and to replace Wax Motor along with the Door Lock, Spin Enable Switches (total of two limit switches). This did not correct the problem. Checked for power and traced loss of power back to the Control Board where resistor R11 was found to be burnt out. Replaced Resistor with new Carbon Film unit, rating of 3.9 K-ohms, 1/4 W and 5%. As a prcaution, replace the Triac (manufactue part number NTE5657), component identified as Q6, rating of 0.8 Amp, 600 VAC. Semiconductor parts must be obtained from somewhere other than Parts Select (unable to find in the small town I live in, I located on the internet at Mouser.com). Unit works great now.

The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.

It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.

I took off the rear panel and removed the hose clamps and electrical terminals, slid pump out of slot in bottom pan of washing machine. It only took minutes, this was part of a major overhaul. I replaced this as a precautionary measure. Great prices and quick service,

First I removed the 4 screws that kept the bezel in place, removed the bezel. Replaced the new bezel, replaced screws, put new top pin in door and put door on.

There was 4 screws that held the bevel in that still needed to be removed from the old broken one. Once we removed those we were able to place the new bevel and lid in the correct sport, replace the screws and viola, perfect.

There were two parts to the repair - the Dispenser Lid and Bezel was easy - I did it myself.
My wife, who normally would try to do the repair of the door lock herself has been very busy with her condo rental business. It took six weeks to get her to order the parts and then they sat in the box for two weeks before I convinced her to call her appliance repair company she uses for the renatl condos. They did a quality job for only $79.00. When my wife saw what he had to be do to repair the locking mechanism, she was convinced we made the right decision. The Maytag washer is working like new after weeks of manually adjusting the door latch, sometimes a dozen times, before it would lock and do a high speed spin.

At first I tried putting the spring into the lid where the shorter extension of the spring fit tightly into the recessed part of the lid. (If you look at the lid where the hole is for the spring and pin, you see that there is what looks like the arm of the letter "Q".) This worked, but the lid would only open with limited force and would hang down when the dishwasher door was closed.
After looking at it again, I positioned the spring so that the shorter extension of the spring ran through the partially open portion of the spring hole. (Looking at the cup laying flat on the ground, you see that the bottom of the pin/spring hole has a slit in it). This allowed the spring to have greater tension and I have had no more problems. The lid opens with force and stays closed when the dishwasher door is closed (vertical).
This may be a little confusing as I do not know the technical terms for any of this stuff, but I just mess with stuff til it works or breaks, whichever comes first! haha

First off, unplug the machine.
Next remove the existing screws in the plastic dispenser. Then remove the door, there are two screws holding the door on connecting two brackets which need to be lifted to get them to release.
That gives you the access to the remove the front panel, which is done by pulling on the panel itself.
Once that is done you need to remove the two screws that are in the corners upper left, and right that are holding the brackets that hold down the top of the machine. Remove the brackets by gently turning them.
Once done the lid should easily lift up.
The dispenser can then be disconnected by removing the 2 rubber hoses on top and the the larger rubber hose on the bottom along with the electrical connections under the unit. Keep track of which wire goes to which lead.
After removing the dispenser just do everything in reverse.
The machine is like new, and the repair took about 45min and saved me at least $200 dollars.

Went on line to find the part numbers, ordered complete replacement. Simply put the stuff together and replaced the whole cup lid.