Part Location Diagram of WP3979346 Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly
See part 18 in the diagram
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly
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Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly

 Fits your 11016922503!
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PartSelect Number PS11742194
Manufacturer Part Number WP3979346
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly Specifications

This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
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Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
No hot or cold water | Leaking
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Inglis.
Part# WP3979346 replaces these:
AP6009052, 3979346, 3979347, 8578342, WP3979346VP
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Customer Repair Stories
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Post drip from water inlet
To replace the inlet solenoid valve/thermistor assembly:
Unplug the washer.
Turn the water off and unscrew the hoses from the inlet.
Unsnap the end caps from the top control panel.
Remove the exposed screws from each end of the panel (#2 Phillips).
Pull the panel out of the way and pop out the two retaining clips that hold the back of the machine to the cabinet. They are located under the control panel.
Remove the mounting screw from the valve assembly (1/4-inch driver).
Pull the back away from the cabinet far enough to remove the valve, but don't let the wires get cut.
Disconnect the wires. To unplug the solenoid connectors, lift the long tab with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the water outlet hose.
Connect the wires and hose to the new valve assembly. The red connector goes to the hot water valve. The thermistor wires (the two individual connectors) can be connected to either terminal. It does not matter if they are reversed.
Put the valve back in place and install the screw.
Hook up and turn the water on.
Plug in the machine and test the valve.
Unplug the power and reinstall the back and the control panel. The back-to-cabinet clips can be snapped back in place easily.
Other Parts Used:
  • Pat from Hilliard, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
72 of 91 people found this instruction helpful.
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no cold water, Just hot
I first removed the top panel,disconnected all the wire clips(four)and then removed the back panel
which is held in plsce by two bolts on the bottom and one plastic clip.After that i removed the solnoid
wires after marking them (hot and cold) the removed the hose clamp then removed the valve it self.Attached the new valve reconnected the hose and re attached the panels and now it works great.
Other Parts Used:
  • Jerry from Camarillo, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Hot water would not stop running into machine when machine is off.
Unplug machine then removed two screws from the back of the control panel so that the panel could be removed from the top of enclosure. I then removed the two spring clips that fastens the enclosure to the back panel of machine. Stand in front of machine and tilt enclosure back towards you, this opens up the machine to get access to the inlet valve. Remove all electrical wires and the water hose at the bottom of the valve. There was only one bolt that attached the valve to the back panel; remove it and replace water inlet valve.
Other Parts Used:
  • Jon from Lafayette, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Two problems - washer stopped and had to open and close lid several times to restart. Problem 2 - could not get inlet valve to take in hot water.
1. Read a repair manual that I bought several years ago for this model. Pictures and notes for removing control panel and back cover of washer were very helpful. Replacing the lid switch was easy as long as you have the lid open when locking it down. The control valve was easy and I swapped out wires one at a time to make sure I didn't swap hot for cold. I then removed valve and locked down new one. Reversing the control panel and back skin were easy with a second set of hands to hold the back panel in place while installing two bottom screws. The parts resolved the problems.
Other Parts Used:
Washer Lid Switch
  • Harry from Bensalem, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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No cold water entering machine
After uplugging and removing the hoses from the back of the washer, 1 - Removed four screws that secure control panel to top of machine and tilted panel toward front. Disconnected wiring plugs as req'd to gain more access. 2 - Removed the two gold colored clips that secure the top to the lower sheetmetal housing and tilted the lower housing away from the back of the machine. 3 - Removed the shield that is clipped to the back just above the inlet valve assy. 4 - Removed the hose clamp from the valve, disconnected the four wires to the valve (note their position), Removed the single screw that secures the valve assy to the back and removed the valve assy. Installation is reverse of above.
Other Parts Used:
  • Steve from Bethel, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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Cold water would not flow into washing machine
I disconnected the water lines and pulled the washing machine over so it was lying on its front. I removed two screws on the bottom edge of the back, and then puzzled over how to get the back off. I ended up removing the screws that held the control panel on, removing the wiring harness, and taking the control panel/head off. This exposed two metal clips that I was able to unhook. I unhooked the water valve from the back, disconnected the electrical connections, removed the water line, and replaced the valve. Then I puzzled about how to put it back together for a bit, and basically just reversed the order I took it apart.
Other Parts Used:
  • Brian from Saint Clair Shores, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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The temperature sensor in the water mixing valve quit working. It would operate on manual, but not auto.
As with any repair job, the hardest part is getting started and figuring out how to take it apart. I first tried to remove the top, by prying up on it,( his has worked in the past). This only broke the plastic retaining clips. I then removed the two plastic covers on each end of the control panel, then the two screws that hold the front of the control panel down. and lastly slid the control panel forward and out of its slots. I then used a 5/16th nutdriver to remove the four screws from the back panel. Now I was able to pull the panel back away from the washer body enough to use needle nose pliers to to remove the four electrical plugs located on the mixing valve. I used a felt tip marker to identify the locations of each plug. I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the one mounting screw that held the valve in place and removed the valve. When the new valve arrived, It took about 15 minutes to re-install the valve and put everything back together.
Other Parts Used:
  • james from arlington, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Eratic water temperature
Removed the 4 screws and nuts to get the control panel, off. Took-off brass clips that hold the back on. Removed 2 bottom nuts and plastic clips on back of washer. Took the back partially off, and removed the water inlet valve and replaced it. Reversed the procedure to re-assemble.The valve may not have been deffective, since after inspection, the hot water inlet screen was clogged with gunk.
Other Parts Used:
  • Michel from Lynnwood, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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In chasing down a plumbing problem elsewhere, I stripped the threads on the washer's inlet valve when swapping the hot and cold hoses.
Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.
Other Parts Used:
  • John from Prince Frederick, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Two problems 1. water leaked into tank after cycle 2. washer had Control Lock led lit all buttons no functionality
1. water inlet valve the one shipped had 1 screw and a hose clamp. very easy, however, the wrong valve was shipped to me for my product but it was a 5watt selenoid so i hadto turn it upside down so the outlet nozzle was facing the right direction putting selenoids upside down. It works but the nozzle is quite a bit larger and i've had my washer overfill with water a couple times. I beleive its probably beecause the water is metered by time to open selenoid and the larger water output nozzle is just letting to much water in for the time allowed I'd like to return this part and get correct replacement it will probably remedy this issue. 2. door lock latch did not fix the problem. Once I finally foun d the correct manual online, after i installed new lock :( , it is a feature of the washing machine to keep small children from starting the machine you can somehow set the" control lock" feature on the machine. it is disabled by pressing the drain/spin button for 3 sec. and all the buttons started working again. I dont know how it got enabled but you sure cant do laundry with the controls locked. so in summary, the selenoid did fix water entering tub but it's now overfilling because of nozzle size. :( and i would like to return it and get correct part. The door lock latch is fine but I cant return it because it is an electrical part:( I guess I should have purchased it from the other online repair/ parts website because they take back used electrical parts. I used your site because it was cheaper, but I paid for shipping and they had free shipping but really costof part was rolled into a shipping charge so it would have been the same money. I would like to swap out the water selenoid if possible i realize door lock latch i will eat, so please respond and tell me if i can swap water inlet valve :) 405-818-7426 if there are any questions and I could give you some real helpful hints for your websites troubleshooting proceedures in particular for this machine. would help you and your customers immensly. I was really impressed with your response and shipping it arrived the very next day before noon WOW.
Other Parts Used:
Door Lock Latch
  • michael from mcloud, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!

26 questions answered by our experts.
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Steven
October 20, 2017
Hot water is fine in our washer, but recently cold water is being delivered very slowly...it dribbles into the tank instead of flowing as a stream, as it used to. Our cold water line and hose are fine, so it seems to be something wrong in the washer. Can you suggest a solution?
For model number WTW5600SQ0
PartSelect logo
Hi Steven, Thank you for the question. The water Inlet valve that attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance has two sides, one for the hot and one for the cold. The cold side is not opening up properly to allow the cold water through. The valve will need to be replaced to fix the issue. Good luck with your repair!

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Dayna
September 26, 2017
Q1: Sometimes water continues to drip into the tub when the washer isn't running: Do I need to replace the valve/thermistosor? I don't have a water softener and have had the washer 10.5 years.
For model number WTW5800SW0
PartSelect logo
Hi Dayna, Thank you for the question. If there is water dripping into the tub you will need to replace the Water Inlet Valve and Thermistor Assembly, PartSelect Number: PS11742194. Good luck with the repair!

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Paul
February 14, 2018
The water pulsates on and off causing the hoses to jump like crazy, water hammering the dickens out of my pipes. If I close the water valves so no water flows i can hear the solenoids clicking on and off rapidly from the back of the unit.I find that if the control is set for cold, the water flows fine, if I open the hot, the hammering starts.What part would cause this atrocious behavior?
For model number LSW9700PQ1
PartSelect logo
Hi Paul, Thank you for the question. This sounds like an issue with the Water Inlet Valve, PartSelect Number: PS11742194/ The hot water inlet could be defective or blocked causing the pulsating. Hope this helps!

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Jeremy
February 1, 2018
The washing machine does not fill on the rinse cycle but it does fill on the wash cycle. Would this be the water inlet valve?
For model number lsn2000pw4
PartSelect logo
Hi Jeremy, Thank you for your question. If your washer is not filling with water, the water inlet valve fixes the issue the majority of the time, but there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will also need to check the water level pressure switch, the direct drive water pump and the lid switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Rafael Zimmermann
August 23, 2017
Good morning. I need an orientation on which part I need to buy for repair. My washing machine fills with water until it overflows, does not stop filling. What part would I need to replace?
For model number WTW5700SW0
PartSelect logo
Hi Rafael, Thank you for the question. If the appliance will not stop filling with water I suggest replacing the water inlet valve. This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed. The valve sounds like it is stuck open. Hope this helps!

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Paul
October 30, 2019
Hot water pulses. The internet sources say that this is usually caused my either the sensor in the inlet valve or the temperature control switch. How can i test to see which is the problem. I have tools and knowledge to test, i would like to know how to know if the sensor is good or bad and diagnostica on the switch.
For model number WTW5700SWO
PartSelect logo
Hello Paul, thank you for your question. The valve can be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 500 - 1500 ohms of resistance. The thermostat should be testing at 0 ohms to be working. This should help narrow down the issue. I hope this helps!

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Ken Nead
December 6, 2019
A new temperature switch was just purchased and installed. Hot water is selected but warm is all that fills the tub. Cold, tap and warm settings all work correctly, but not hot. Would this be the water valve at fault?
For model number 100.29522800
PartSelect logo
Hi Ken, this is a possible part to fix your water not heating. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!

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Yvonne
February 18, 2020
Hello - do i need the water inlet valve and thermistor assembly to fix a wash machine that has the following two problems?: 1) machine does not fill on the rinse cycle (over a couple of month's time the machine would pause at rinse cycle and make a noise and then start filling. the pause/noise became longer and longer with each use of the machine and then it finally stopped working), 2) only hot water works when filling on the wash cycle (this happened suddenly) thank you so much!
For model number 110.29622800
PartSelect logo
Hello, Thank you for your question. Typically this is caused from the water inlet valve. We hope this helps.

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Austin
February 26, 2020
Does this come with a new hose?
For model number 110.15862400
PartSelect logo
Hi Austin, thank you for your question. It does not. If you need one of your inlet hoses from the wall to the machine you would need this hose: PS11746820. If you need the inner hose that goes to the syphon, you would need this hose: PS11745951. Good luck with your repair.

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Russell
January 31, 2019
Water starts to fill but tub will not fill. Both hot and cold work
For model number Wtw5810sw0
PartSelect logo
Hello, thank you for your inquiry! If you find it is filling but filling very slowly and not filling enough before the next cycle starts, we recommend checking your water valve to ensure it is allowing the proper flow of water to pass through. If it is not filling at all, we recommend checking your direct drive water pump , PS11741239, as it may be draining when it is not supposed to. We hope this helps!

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11742194
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3979346
Brand
Model Number
Description
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11015732400
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