Product Description
Dryer Heating Element Specifications
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Dryer Heating Element
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Not Heating | Too hot
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid.
Part# WP3387747 replaces these:
AP6008281, 3387747, 80003, W11045584, W11344457, WP3387747VP
Customer Reviews
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Kelvin N - September 6, 2024
Verified Purchase
The BEST QUALITY FOR SURE!!
I got it on time and it works really really well….thanks partselect!!
Patrick C - December 16, 2023
Verified Purchase
Worked
2 days with no dryer with five kids. Quick and efficient. Happy
Candace C - September 28, 2023
Verified Purchase
Perfect part for our dryer
Ordered a part for my dryer it came in record time. If any other of my appliances break down I will order from this company.
Cory B - September 8, 2023
Verified Purchase
Correct part, fast shipping, easy fix.
I've bought multiple parts for my various appliances over the years from PartSelect, couldn't be happier with them. They make it easy to find the right part, and it ships right away.
Eleni P - September 1, 2023
Verified Purchase
Dryer heater not working- DIY repair
The part was exactly as ordered. Arrived on time. Replaced the old dryer heater component - repair was successful!
Allen P - May 13, 2023
Verified Purchase
Awesome Delivery Time
I received my part 1 1/2 days after I ordered it….the part was the correct one doing the replacement was quick and easy. The dryer is operating like new again. Based on this experience very highly recommended!!
Dennis D - January 4, 2023
Verified Purchase
Easy peasy
Having the right part made it easy
Hsueh Tony H - June 10, 2022
Verified Purchase
Excellent product
The part was easy to install and I am extremely happy with my purchase.
Robert T - March 25, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy to install
Original part. Now my dryer works like brand new
Marie M - March 25, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
So grateful to have my dryer in working order again.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 58 reviews.
What's this?
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Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
Other Parts Used:
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Alan from Brooksville, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
500 of 588 people
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Dryer not heating
Our dryer is 8 years old and had been slowly taking longer and longer to dry clothes, to the point that I was ready to purchase a new one. When the dryer stopped heating completely, I removed the bottom panel and found that the heating element was no longer working. I checked online and found this website. The top two recommended fixes for this issue was to replace the heating element and/or thermal cut-off kit (two sensors). I chose to purchase both, delivered to me very quickly (two days). I figured for $80 you can't go wrong. Here's the procedure I followed:
On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.
(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!
Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.
(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!
Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
Other Parts Used:
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Wesley from Boyds, MD
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
294 of 332 people
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Clothes would not Dry
I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance.
Other Parts Used:
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Vince from Kathleen, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
88 of 124 people
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No Heat When Drying
I followed the tips from the repair video. Easy as 1-2-3. I changed both the heating element as well as the thermal cut off. Went ahead and repaired the door catch. Brand new dryer for the next 10 years. I do advise to pull out your shop vac and remove the tons of lint that accumulates in the bottom. A definite fire hazardous. I do attest that this web site is the best by far.
Other Parts Used:
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DAVID from CHARLOTTE, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
60 of 70 people
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Dryer would not heat at all.
Found a service manual on-line for the Whirlpool Duet Dryer. Did the troubleshooting for the problem stated. Found the heater element to be bad (open circuit across heater block). Ordered new element from PartSelect.com and installed. Dryer now works like a charm and I didn't have to call a repairman.
Other Parts Used:
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Lou from Orlando, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Heating element burned out
I first went to your site and studied the parts diagram to see where the element was located. I then unplugged the dryer and pulled from the wall. After that I popped open the front cover and accessed the bottom of the dryer where the element was located. I then removed two screws that held the element in place and removed the wires to the element. After a little tug the old element came out. I slid the new one in place and connected the wiring and screws and replaced the cover and pluged it in. Works good as new...
Other Parts Used:
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Derek from Springhill, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
29 of 33 people
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Dryer wouldn't heat
Following the very helpful instructions that I found at PartSelect.com I was able to open the dryer and access the heating element which I suspected was bad. I realized later that I didn't need to open up as much as I did but the job was easy. In the future I would only open the panel below the door to access the element.
Just to make sure that it wasn't a problem with a thermostat or thermal fuse I also checked continuity from the temperature selector knob on the control panel to the heating element. When I verified continuity (zero resistance) I knew that the element was bad. Once I removed it I could see that one of the coils was broken and I should have just checked that first and not bothered opening up the control panel at the top.
Still it was less than an hour of work total. I have some experience with DIY projects but have not worked on appliances before. Thanks for the great site with good instructions and lower costs than the local parts counter.
Just to make sure that it wasn't a problem with a thermostat or thermal fuse I also checked continuity from the temperature selector knob on the control panel to the heating element. When I verified continuity (zero resistance) I knew that the element was bad. Once I removed it I could see that one of the coils was broken and I should have just checked that first and not bothered opening up the control panel at the top.
Still it was less than an hour of work total. I have some experience with DIY projects but have not worked on appliances before. Thanks for the great site with good instructions and lower costs than the local parts counter.
Other Parts Used:
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Suzanne from Saint Francisville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
24 of 26 people
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dryer wouldnt heat
First i tested each part for continuity and found out that the thermal fuse was bad. So ordered the part and went ahead and got thermostat and element to ensure no problems in the future since I already was in there.
Other Parts Used:
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JEFF from LEBANON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Dryer runs with no heat
It was easier to remove the blower manifold cover, (3 screws) to get at the heater element. Remove the heat shield, disconnect the two wires from the element. There is another screw on the side holding the element in the housing. Remove it and slide the element torward you. I used pliers as it was a snug fit. Replace. Good time to vacuum the whole area.
Other Parts Used:
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Paul from Bradford, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
23 of 28 people
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dryer will not dry the cloths
1st. i removed the two screws that holds the cover.
2nd. -vacumn (most time used)around to find the screws that hold the metal heat tube and shield.
3 rd. removing the screws tip the front of the tube up and pull out from the back.my element was clipped in place. I then pulled the element out and replaced the thermostat (tip: replace all t'stats around the heat element). it is as simple as reading the repair stories
2nd. -vacumn (most time used)around to find the screws that hold the metal heat tube and shield.
3 rd. removing the screws tip the front of the tube up and pull out from the back.my element was clipped in place. I then pulled the element out and replaced the thermostat (tip: replace all t'stats around the heat element). it is as simple as reading the repair stories
Other Parts Used:
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mike from jensen beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 25 people
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Questions and Answers
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Mitchel
July 20, 2017
My dryer is not heating up, I checked the heater element and it is getting 240V. I checked the high limit thermos, the thermal cut off, and the heater element for continuity and there is between all three. So is it definitive that I need a new heating element?
Hi Mitchel, if you tested your heater element and there is 240 V and it still does not heat you can be confident that it does need replacing. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
49 people found this helpful.
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Joy
July 20, 2017
I keep having to replace my heating element … this is the third time. This time it melted the wires that are attached by the insulator. Wth am I doing wrong that it keeps going, plz help!
Hi Joy, sorry to hear that. The most common reason for elements failing is due to the dryer having poor ventilation. Your first step should be to check the vent of the dryer for clogging and make sure there is good airflow. I hope this helps!
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Chantel
July 20, 2017
Ordered a new heating element from you and it was Part# 3387747, my old one says 5400 W and this one says 5200 W, why the drop in wattage? Will it affect my machine???
Hi Chantel, you are right the heating element has had a drop in wattage. This was a decision made and implemented by the manufacturer. Although we do not know their reasons why, we can safely say that this heating element WP3387747 is meant for your model.
22 people found this helpful.
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Gene
August 28, 2017
Get to hot and will not shut off
For model number 11068842700
Hi Gene,
Thank you for the question. We recommend replacing the Thermal Fuse. It is a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the heating element when a dryer overheats. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set.
Hope this helps!
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John
September 19, 2017
When I said the dryer heats at the high temp, I did not mean too hot . It does not adjust to lower temps for dedicates or fluff
For model number 11069822800
Ho John,
Thank you for the question. Sounds like the Thermostat, Internal-Bias, PartSelect Number PS11746740. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum.
Hope this helps!
9 people found this helpful.
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Stanley
September 23, 2019
I have replaced this heating element before. I watched the video and your repairman does a great job. None of the wires are broken on the one I put in 6 months ago. I needed to know how to check out the other two parts on the cover. I think they are some type of fuses. Can you tell me how to check them out. My Sears dryer was new in 2005. I only replaced this heater once. I need help. Thank you!
For model number Sears(Whirlpool) WP3387747 240v 5200w
Hi Stanley,
Thank you for your question. To test the heaters, you will need to test them with a multimeter. Here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may reference on how to use one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Nanette
February 26, 2018
My dryer is not heating. Can you help?
For model number 110.85861400
Hello Nanette,
Thanks for your question. There are a few different parts you will want to test with a multimeter to see if they have electrical continuity. Replace any that do not show continuity. Test the thermal fuse, the heating element, the high-limit thermostats, the heating element connection wire kit, and the internal-bias thermostat.
I hope this helps.
8 people found this helpful.
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Arlene
April 26, 2018
What is a thermal fuse?
For model number 5400W 240V
Hi Arlene,
Thank you for your question. The thermal fuse is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
7 people found this helpful.
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Don
August 28, 2019
Dryer heats up but the washload seems to take twice as long to dry than it did for the past few years. Any suggestions on what needs to be fixed/replaced?
For model number LEQ8621PW0
Hello Don, thank you for inquiring. This could be an indication of a faulty Thermal Fuse, part number PS11741460 for your model. You may also want to consider the Heating Element part number PS11741416. Good luck with your repair!
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Bob
September 9, 2019
Having a bit of trouble figuring out which drum roller/ belt kit I need
Hello Bob, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11741416
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387747
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387747
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