GASKET-Freezer DRAWER

determined it was an air leak. Freezer portion has no drain. A fan in back blows air in through vents to keep unit defrosted. There was a gap across the entire top of gasket where it seals up against the frame. Simply pull the old gasket out of its track around the entire door. No tools needed and the door does not need to be removed. Fit the new gasket into the track until it is securely seated around all 4 sides of the door. That's it. I still had a small gap between the top of the door gasket and the freezer frame. The freezer frame may have warped a little over the years. I applied a thin strip of weather stripping to the freezer body where it meets up against the new gasket. That did it.

Remove old gasket by pulling it away from the frame. Work all the way around the gasket till it is entirely separate from the door. Remove the old gasket by slipping it over the door. Note the orientation of the new gasket will have the small bead towards the door - slip the new gasket over the door so that it is in the inside of the freezer door. Press the small bead into the slot in the door. Work all the way around, pressing the bead in with your fingers. When it's all secure, close the door and check for no gaps. Takes 5 minutes and no tools - very easy. Make sure you order the correct COLOR of gasket - it comes in black and white. The black looks best on stainless steel door.

I REMOVED THE OLD GASKET BEING VERY CAREFUL TO SEE EXACTLY HOW IT CAME OFF. I INSERTED THE LOCKING INSERT INTO THE TRACK IN THE DOOR WHICH DID NOT FIT AS THE OLD ONE DID. AFTER USING TREMENDOUS FORCE WITH MULTIPLE TOOLS I DID MANAGE TO GET THE TOP AND THE SIDES TO LOCK INTO PLACE AND EVENTUALLY HOLD. THE BOTTOM OF THE GASKET DID NOT HOLD SO I USED CLEAR CAULK AND TAPE TO HOLD THE GASKET IN UNTIL THE CAULK CURED. AFTER THE CAULK CURED THE GASKET HAS, SO FAR, REMAINED TIGHT.