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Product Description
Defrost Timer Specifications
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater. The best way to make sure you get the correct timer for your refrigerator is to conduct a search for your model number. NOTE: The black lead on the defrost timer, will go to terminal number 2.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Defrost Timer
![Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Defrost Timer Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Defrost Timer](https://img.youtube.com/vi/sid2K9W_ums/maxresdefault.jpg)
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Leaking
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator, Freezer.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, Amana, KitchenAid.
Part# W10822278 replaces these:
AP5985208, 0053736, 0055525, 0056627, 0056768, 0056906, 0056907, 0057052, 0311209, 104039, 1101021, 1105267, 1113225, 1114246, 1114248, 1114264, 1114283, 1114287, 1115416, 1118626
...
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, 1127570, 1127571, 1127591, 14210016, 1530557, 1548140, 1549238, 1549252, 1549256, 1833663, 1850019, 1850038, 20009000, 20009023, 20009037, 20103015, 20142257, 20143568, 20144431, 20144520, 2149098, 2154665, 2154666, 2154912, 2154982, 2154983, 2154984, 2162046, 2162347, 2172691, 2176335, 2176340, 2176646, 2176648, 2188371, 2188372, 2188375, 2188376, 2193084, 2199008, 4210521, 4210579, 4210778, 4318057, 4339497, 4339856, 4343354, 4343402, 4356929, 4389238, 480561, 482489, 482493, 483212, 511883, 513588, 513590, 513629, 513630, 530213, 530214, 530557, 530558, 531714, 54113-3, 54113001, 548044, 548121, 548140, 548709, 549090, 549091, 549238, 549239, 549252, 549253, 549256, 549257, 549875, 549876, 56906, 798629, 8133, 833531, 833663, 833757, 833795, 833840, 850019, 850038, 850343, 850344, 850345, 850608, 850609, 850694, 850695, 850731, 850845, 850847, 850878, 850879, 851061, 851106, 851160, 851161, 851200, 851269, 851406, 851701, 851971, 938035, 940074, 943428, 943434, 943435, 943436, 945486, 945512, 945513, 945514, 978266, 978472, 989280, 989281, D70041-12, D7004112, FSP482493, R0950029, R0950217, W10740039, W10822278VP, Y0053736, Y0055525, Y0056627, Y0056768, Y0056906, Y0311209
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Customer Reviews
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Tom L - May 27, 2021
Verified Purchase
Good price, fast delivery
The part cost less than from a local shop and delivery was faster.
Terry S - September 7, 2019
Verified Purchase
online instructions very helpful
Well packaged-delivery st the speed of light;FIRST RATE!!!!
Andrew K - April 26, 2019
Verified Purchase
Fast service, correct part
The part was shipped and received in just a couple of days. The instructions where clear (3 different wiring possibilities for install) and my fridge is once again functioning normally.
Donald L - December 21, 2018
Verified Purchase
perfect replacement
perfect replacement except there no instalion paper
James Scott P - December 13, 2018
Verified Purchase
Esay Repair. Works really well.
The part was brand new and works like a charm.Thanks so much for the less-than-24-hour delivery.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.6 / 5.0, 44 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal opens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
Other Parts Used:
-
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver
428 of 511 people
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We were getting ice forming in the freezer compartment and water in the frig compartment
A. remove food from freezer and store in cooler etc.
B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10
B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10
Other Parts Used:
-
Teri from West Valley City, UT
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
206 of 233 people
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Defrost timer was faulty. Required a mild tap to restart
Trouble shot the electrical circuit per the electrical schematic and zeroed in when I noted the Defrost Timer circuit was open. When I tapped on the bottom of the timer it began functioning normally (for a few days). Ordered a new Defrost Timer Kit and along with the installation instruction, I watched the on-line video. It was very helpful!!
After installation was complete, I plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and.......nothing happened! Hmmm!
Removed the Defrost Time Kit and inspected it for any damage and found none. Then I placed a flathead screwdriver to the manual advance knob and slightly rotate the gear mechanism. I heard a distance "click”. I believe the Timer was in the ‘defrost’ mode when received.
I reinstalled the timer, verified the wiring connections and this time plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and ….. it worked!!!
I unplugged the refrigerator, finished the installation per the instructions, plugged the unit in and monitored it for a few hours (just in case). That was a week ago and the Refrigerator is working like new.
The instructions were written in a manner which required re-reading a few times as they could be a bit vague. The video was what really helped and I appreciate PartSelect adding it to the instructions.
After installation was complete, I plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and.......nothing happened! Hmmm!
Removed the Defrost Time Kit and inspected it for any damage and found none. Then I placed a flathead screwdriver to the manual advance knob and slightly rotate the gear mechanism. I heard a distance "click”. I believe the Timer was in the ‘defrost’ mode when received.
I reinstalled the timer, verified the wiring connections and this time plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and ….. it worked!!!
I unplugged the refrigerator, finished the installation per the instructions, plugged the unit in and monitored it for a few hours (just in case). That was a week ago and the Refrigerator is working like new.
The instructions were written in a manner which required re-reading a few times as they could be a bit vague. The video was what really helped and I appreciate PartSelect adding it to the instructions.
Other Parts Used:
-
LES from MADERA, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
66 of 73 people
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Freezer Iced up, dripping water into refrigerator below
De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct terminal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.
Other Parts Used:
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Robert from Bradenton, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
61 of 72 people
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The refrigerator would go off in the defrost cycle and not come back on. You could strike the bottom of the element and sometimes it would come back on until the next cycle.
First I replaced the thermostat that I had ordered thru Partselect but that did not seem to effect the reair. According to the schematic diagram the only other thing in the circuit was the defrost timer. Immediately on its arrival I went to the refrigerator and removed the two screws that hold the timer in place and disconnected the two wires and installed the new one from Partselect in reverse order. It took about 15 minutes and it was back to running.
Other Parts Used:
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Jim from Sheridan, AR
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
56 of 66 people
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Refrigerator too warm, freezer coil iced up
Unplug the refrigerator first,then Remove shelves and back inside cover from the freezer. Cut old bi-metal thermostat off and installed a new one. This fixed the problem. Ordered a new timer also which I didn,t need but installed it any way. On the fridge side ,top front, removed the knobs and cover, R&R timer, installed cover and knobs. Pay close attention to the instructions on where to put the black wire on the new timer. My refrigerator works great now. This was easy to repair if you are handy with electrical and mechanical repairs, if not get some help.
Other Parts Used:
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Jim from Lynn, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Timer "clicking", indicating worn gears
1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.
Other Parts Used:
-
John from Plano, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
37 of 42 people
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Defrost timer was faulty. It would not restart on it's own.
Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!
Other Parts Used:
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Ed from Frankfort, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
33 of 47 people
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no cooling in the refrigrator area
first thanks to part select for the info in the web site.last week notice the area in the refrigerator.was bearly cold. went to parts select read the coments.and whala.i am an expert.my wife was amazed.i was sure the evaporator fan not work,but reading in the web site i learn it can be few other parts so a change all 3 parts,just to make sure, thank you again part selact you are the best.and thank you for the magazines.. JOSE ANGEL
Other Parts Used:
-
JOSE from GREENSBURG, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
30 of 41 people
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greezer started to thaw and would not refreeze
tested thermostat and defrost time but both tested as working...called a repairman who came in and said they were both working...got annnoyed for not trusting myself. Repairman did say that he had seen defrost timers simply slow down, allwoing them to tesat as good but not actually working correctly. I ordered both the thermostat and the timer to cover all bases...actual replacement was simple.
Other Parts Used:
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Christopher from Redmond, WA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
21 of 27 people
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Jose
October 5, 2017
Purchased a defrost timer but can not figure out to which pin to connect the black wire to
For model number rt21lmxkq04
Hi Jose,
Thank you for your question. We have a video that should show you how to do that. Here is the url for that video: https://youtu.be/sid2K9W_ums . Good luck with your repair.
30 people found this helpful.
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Dustee
May 24, 2019
I cannot figure out where the black wire goes for my refrigerator. Can you help?
For model number 10671184101
Hello Dustee, thank you for your question. Find your defrost timer and look at the colors of the wires that plug into you timer. If you have black, pink, red, and orange wires, put the black jumper on the #2 terminal. If you have orange, pink, white, and red, put it over the #1 terminal. Hope this helps!
22 people found this helpful.
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Gary
November 6, 2017
Where can I find the defrost timer?
For model number ST14CKXHW00
Hi Gary,Thank you for the question. The Defrost Timer is located inside the control box housing where the light bulb and the Thermostat control is located.Hope this helps!
14 people found this helpful.
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Darryl
April 25, 2018
Where is this located and my fridge comes on for a long period and then shuts of for a long period changed the start relay but will this part fix it
For model number ED22PEXHW02
Hi Darryl, Thank you for the question. Here is a link to the video on how to install the timer. It will show where it is located. Hope this helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sid2K9W_ums
![](https://img.youtube.com/vi/sid2K9W_ums/maxresdefault.jpg)
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Bob Falso
January 5, 2018
Ice build up on back wall in fridge causing water to leak into lower part of fridge. I replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat and heater defrost. What else should i try? Thanks
For model number ET8MTKXKQ02
Hi Bob,
Thank you for your question. If you have have already replaced the bi-metal defrost thermostat and the defrost timer, there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the defrost heater, fresh food door gasket, the ice maker and the air diffuser. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Tom
January 5, 2018
The fridge is way too cold and the freezer is way too warm?? thanks!
For model number ET22DKXXN
Hello Tom, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: the evaporator fan motor, the condenser fan motor, the damper control, the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat, and the cold control thermostat. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!
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Jeffrey
November 12, 2017
The freezer and fridge will stop cooling periodically and will sometimes come back on but if i turn the fridge switch to off then back on it will start to cycle again it’s like it sticks in defrost.
For model number ED25UEXHW01
Hi Jeffrey, Thank you for the question. This sounds like a defective Thermostat Assembly. I suggest testing the Thermostat with a multi meter to check for resistance. You can also test the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat.The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Mario
August 12, 2017
Bought the defrost timer thinking it would solve issue freezer bit cool but nothing on fridge side, when i.Put new timer, nothing happens, if i.Put the old one back in u can hear compressor hum, but nothing on fridge side again, could it be thermostat problem also??
For model number ST14CKXKQ01
Hi Mario,
Thank you for your inquiry. If your fridge and freezer section are too warm, the majority of the time it is the capacitor that fixes the issue. Another part you may have to check is the evaporator fan motor. To verify which part is causing the issue you will need to use a multimeter. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Brian
June 30, 2021
Does the black wire on the replacement defrost timer go on terminal 1 or 2 for this Whirlpool refrigerator model?
For model number ED19EKXP
Hello Brian, thank you for your question. The black lead wire on the timer will go to terminal number 1 on the new timer. I hope this helps.
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Dave
December 9, 2017
What procedure do I use to install the defrost timer kit for my model?
For model number KSRF26DTAL00
Hello Dave,
Thanks for your question. You will need to disconnect the power from the fridge to begin with. The defrost timer is in the right-hand side of the control housing of the fridge. Unscrew the panel and remove it. Afterwards, remove the old defrost timer and replace it. We recommend taking a picture of the wires to ensure they are properly replaced.
We also have a video online for installing the part: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sid2K9W_ums
I hope this helps.
![](https://img.youtube.com/vi/sid2K9W_ums/maxresdefault.jpg)
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11723171
Manufacturer Part Number: W10822278
Manufacturer Part Number: W10822278
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