ZISS360NRSS General Electric Dryer - Overview

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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter – Part Number: MWFP
$94.45
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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
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(19)
Part #MWFP
This ice and water filter helps reduce impurities in select side by side and bottom freezer refrigerators. Replace it about every six months, or when water flow slows, ice production drops, or the filter light turns red. Some older filter setups may need an adapter. Place a cloth under the filter before removal. Check the exact refrigerator model before ordering.
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
$34.68
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Temperature Sensor
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(10)
Part #WR55X10025
Also known as a thermistor. This part is used to sense the temperature in the cabinet.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$23.79
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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
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(1)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
Interlock Switch – Part Number: WD21X10261
$43.00
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Interlock Switch
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(17)
Part #WD21X10261
This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the appliance from operating when the door is open.
WATER VALVE WITH GUARD – Part Number: WR57X33326
No Longer Available
WATER VALVE WITH GUARD
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(8)
Part #WR57X33326
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
GRID ASM – Part Number: WE22X35337
No Longer Available
GRID ASM
Part #WE22X35337
This is a replacement lint filter slide for your dryer. It is approximately 14 inches long and 5 inches wide. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. The slide mounts to your dryer and allows the lint filter to slide out for cleaning. If your lint filter will not slide out properly, you may need to replace the slide. This part is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Door Strike – Part Number: WE1X1192
$13.95
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Door Strike
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(3)
Part #WE1X1192
TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the door will not lock properly and not only will this cause the door to swing open, but it won’t allow the dryer to start properly. It is a small piece of metal, about 1 inch in length and is sold individually.
Door Latch – Part Number: WE1M1011
$25.31
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Door Latch
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Part #WE1M1011
This Genuine OEM door latch is designed for use with a wide range of GE clothes dryers. Constructed from a combination of durable metal and plastic, the latch is mounted onto the dryer frame to securely hold the door closed during operation. A properly functioning latch is essential for safe and efficient drying cycles. Sold individually, this replacement part may require a screwdriver and a pair of pliers for removal and installation. Replacing a worn or broken latch helps restore proper door alignment and ensures the appliance operates as intended.
Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack) – Part Number: WE03X37319
No Longer Available
Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack)
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Part #WE03X37319
This drum glide bearing is an authentic OEM replacement part that is compatible with dryers. It is white in color and made of highly durable plastic. The bearing allows the drum to rotate smoothly and dry your clothes thoroughly and evenly. It keeps the drum stable and protects it from excessive friction damage. Over time, the bearing may wear down or break due to normal aging or wear from repeated use. If the bearing is no longer able to support the drum, you will likely notice unusually loud grinding or squeaking noises from the dryer. You may also notice increased drying times due to poor drum rotation. Inspect all the bearings on your dryer, as they tend to wear down at the same time. Each drum glide bearing is sold individually.
French Door Gasket - Gray – Part Number: WR14X10305
$154.88
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French Door Gasket - Gray
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Part #WR14X10305
This door gasket is used to make an air-tight seal for the cabinet when the door is closed.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
No Longer Available
LIGHT SWITCH
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Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$13.95
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Compression Ring
Part #WR02X12149

Common Symptoms of the ZISS360NRSS

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Leaking
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Not dispensing water
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Light not working
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Door won’t close
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Won’t Start
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Door Sweating
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Marks left on clothes
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Too hot
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Not Heating
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Touchpad does not respond
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Will not drain
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Door Pops Open
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Drum Not Spinning
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Locking Issues
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Clicking sound
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Door latch failure
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Doesn’t stop running
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Timer Not Working
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Too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Lid or door won’t close
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Water Filling Issues
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No hot or cold water
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Refrigertor water dispenser not working BUT ice machine is working
1038 of 1163 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ralph from bristow, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo t he connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
305 of 405 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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Water dispenser not operating
196 of 235 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from pennsburg, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench set
Model includes filtered ice maker and water dispenser from front of unit. Water maker just suddenly stopped working but ice maker continued to work fine. After some phone calls to trouble shoot at a high level, I figured it was worth a try to buy the replacement part of the most likely culprit and see if it did the trick. Would have cos t maybe $150 or more for service tech to make house call, provide the part and do the switch. Buying the part was only $40 and replacement was easy. Remove access panel from behind fridge and identify valve. It has intake water from the filter then has two outbound lines. One to ice maker, one to water dispenser. All function is in one part, but each outbound line has its own functioning valve. Unplug fridge, turn off water supply, disconnect all connections from old valve and reattach to new valve. When re-hooked, be patient in allowing water to re-fill line before coming out of dispenser in front. Likely to doubt it works, but surprised how long it took for water to fill line resevoir.
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