WTW8000DW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.

This is a very simple repair. My lid was severely cracked on the back left corner where there seems to be a lot of pressure/torque required to shut the lid. There is a metal L-shaped "tab" that inserts into the lid on both sides of the back edge of the lid. The lid is attached to these metal tabs with two screws for each side. My cracked lid had resulted in the lid breaking off of the metal tab with the screws still anchored into the metal tab.

Make sure screws have been removed from the metal tabs on both sides. Do not remove metal tabs- leave them attached to the washing maching (otherwise, you will not be able to attach the lid back onto the machine). Slide the lid over the tabs. There are square-shaped spaces along the edge of the lid where the tabs slide into the lid. Re-screw the screws into the lid, attaching the lid to the tabs through pre-drilled holes on the sides of the lid. It may take a little time to make sure the screws are properly inserted into the lid and tab screw holes. Tighten up and you're finished.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

As women, myself and my daughter completed this fairly simple repair. The replacement washer plate was top quality and included the washplate replacement screw. Additionally, we purchased a tube of lock tight to further secure bolt placement. The most difficult part of the repair is to disengage old screw and securely replace with new one. Very pleased with fast delivery Excellent customer service and top quality part.
Thanks

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.

HAD A HARD TIME FINDING ANY YOU-TUBE VIDEO THAT SHOWS MY EXACT MACHINE. MAYBE BECAUSE IT IS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD. FINALLY FOUND A PARTS DIAGRAM THAT SHOWED LOCATION OF CLIPS TO RELEASE THE CONTROL CONSOLE FROM THE TOP DECK. ONCE I GOT THE CONSOLE FREE, IT WAS ONLY A FEW MINUTES TO REPLACE THE BOARD AND CONNECT BACK UP. MY MACHINE HAS NO KNOBS ON THE FACE SO I COULDN'T USE THE "STANDARD" CALIBRATION TECHNIQUE. INSTRUCTIONS WITH NEW PART SAYS THAT RUNNING IN "CLEANING MODE" WILL CALIBRATE. i TRIED THAT BUT HAD TO QUIT AS WATER WAS LEAKING FROM THE BOTTOM OF MACHINE. THE NEXT DAY, I BAILED AT LEAST 40 GALLONS OF WATER OUT SO I COULD MOVE THE MACHINE OUT TO LOOK FOR THE LEAK. WHEN I REMOVED THE BACK AND TRIED THE MACHINE, I GOT AND F1, E3 ERROR CODE. SINCE I HAD THE WATER SHUT OFF, I FIGURED THIS WAS THE PROBLEM. BUT MACHINE WOULD ONLY PUMP THE REST OF THE WATER OUT, FLASH THE E3,F1 CODE OVER AND OVER. FOUND A YOU-TUBE VIDEO COVERING A MAYTAG WASHER WITH THE SAME SYMPTOMS. SIMPLE FIX WAS TO REMOVE THE AIR TUBE FROM THE CONTROL BOARD, BLOW INTO IT TO REMOVE ANY OBSTRUCTIONS AND WATER, RECONNECT AND DONE. SURELY THIS WOULD BE TOO SIMPLE BUT WHEN I PLUGGED THE MACHINE IN AGAIN AND HIT THE POWER BUTTON, EVERYTHING LIT UP LIKE IT SHOULD. I WENT BACK TO THE UTILITY SETTING FOR CLEANING THE WASHER. THIS TIME, NO WATER LEAKS AND EVERYTHING WORKED FOR THE 1 HOUR PLUS CLEANING CYCLE. I NEVER DID FIND ANYTHING LEAKING IN THE BACK OR UNDER THE TUB. I PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND MACHINE WORKS LIKE A DREAM.
REMEMBER- CONSOLE CLIPS ARE ON THE FRONT CORNERS OF CONTROL CONSOLE AND REQUIRE A FLAT THIN AND NARROW BLADE TO RELEASE THEM, SUCH AS A TABLE KNIFE. THERE ARE 2 SCREWS TO REMOVE FROM THE BACK PANEL THAT ARE INTO THE PLASTIC CONSOLE. REPLACEMENT SHOULD BE A 10 MINUTE JOB IF YOU COULD GET INSTRUCTIONS.

Removed two screws that held the control panel from the back with a power drill. Pop the control panel loose with a screwdriver from the top of the machine with the quick disconnects. After turning both the hot and cold water off I remove the hoses with pliers removed two screws with the power drill that hold the water inlet valve in place disconnected the wire harness plug And removed water inlet valve swap, the original harness to the new water inlet valve and follow the steps backwards to finish

Turned off power and water. Removed hoses/Unplugged power. Removed screws to open and access control panel. Removed existing valve first by pinching off 6 wire connectors then screws securing valve to washer base. At this point, I replaced with new valve and reattached everything. I also added screen washers to both hoses as I suspect it was built up debris in original valve impeding water flow through valve that led to problem…

I removed the 2 hose clamps connecting to the pump, removed 3 screws holding pump in place, and disconnected 2 wires plugged into pump. Put the new pump on in reverse order.

Removed four screws,slid old lid off then slid new lid on and tightened four screws back,first lid was broken upon delivery, getting my refund has been a nightmare,still haven't been refunded,it's going on 3 weeks,they told me 72 hours,other than that..

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done