This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
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This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
$48.11
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The suspension rod kit supports the wash drum and keeps it stable during unbalanced loads. If your washer is making a loud banging sound during the washing cycle, check to ensure the suspension rods a...
$104.97
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This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate.
NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
$121.09
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This rotary position sensor is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. It helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. Customers have rated this repair as easy. To c...
$56.04
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
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Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
$10.09
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Questions And Answers for WTW6200VW0
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Bakari
September 6, 2021
Machine washes but does not spin to wring the water out
For model number WTW6200VW0
Hello Bakari, Thank you for the question. If the appliance Washes and Drains water but will not Spin, we suggest checking the Rotary Position Sensor, PartSelect Number PS11749664 and the Lid Lock Assembly, PartSelect Number PS11756782. They can be tested with a Multimeter to check the continuity and resistance. We hope this helps!
Leaking from bottom of drum… is there a seal there? Do you have part/instructions to change?
For model number WTW6200VW0
Hello Mike, thank you for contacting us. The Inner Cap Seal appears to be faulty and you may need to replace it with part number PS11748108. We have attached a video to help you replace this seal. If this is not causing the issue, we would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: Drain Pump, part number PS5136124 and Agitator Cap Barrier, part number PS11748113. We hope this helps! If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
We have a 5d error at 29 min wash is drained but hasn’t spun.
For model number WTW6200VW0
Hi Marianne, thank you for the question. The SD or 5D error code on your appliance means that you have excessive suds built up. This happens when you are using too much detergent or using a non high efficiency detergent in a high efficiency washer. What your appliance is doing during this is putting more water into your washer so that it can break up all of the suds and then proceed to drain. If you change to a HE detergent and have started to use less and you still get the error, it is suggested that you run your appliance through a clean washer cycle so that it can clean up any detergent build up inside of the machine. If the code still persists, then you may need to check the user control and display board, part number PS11748073. We hope this helps!
Hello Reuben, thank you for getting in touch. We have researched and found that the error code UL indicates that the load is out of balance. We would recommend redistributing the load evenly. If the issue remains, then you may need to check the rotor position sensor, part number PS11749664, to solve the problem. The rotor position sensor helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. We hope this helps!
Washer runs through wash cycle and then empties out water but drain pump continues to run and run and will not switch over to the spin cycle. When running the automatic diagnostic test, the test runs properly until it gets to c8 and then it just won't go any further, the pump drains all the water out of the washer and the agitator does a slight movement but nothing else happens, you just have to finally hit the cancel button. Manual pumps test is fine. Manual agitate test is fine. Manual spin test is fine except that the indicators above the button pressed for the test do not scroll from top to bottom, instead indicator lights at top of console scroll. Checked resistance of motor, it was good. Could not check resistance of rotor position sensor due to no wire showing in p10 plug anywhere. I am not sure what to think. Since the pump drains the water out, there is no blockage and the pump is working to remove the water. There is nothing clogged under the basket and the basket moves freely. I also checked the hub basket and it was okay. Since the manual spin test worked, i just don't know what to think. Do you have any suggestions?
For model number WTW6200VW0
Hello Martha, thank you for your question. That sounds like an issue with the machine and motor control unit. PartSelect Number: PS11749893. We would recommend replacing that part. I hope this helps.
Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.
Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.
At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).
Re-assemble using new pump.
Note: Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
Removed the dial control top covering by unscrewing the 3 screws in the back of the cover. Once the cover was off, the control module was exposed and all I had to do was:
1. Disconnect the wires that were plugged into the control module
2. Remove the old module. There was 1 screw holding it in place.
3. Replace with the new module. Put back the screw back.
4. Reconnect the wires. There was about a 8 different plugs that needed to reconnected. So I took a few pictures of how the wires were connected/plugged in, with my compact camera (just in case I forgot where each went). I didn't need to use the pictures, but it was just a safety net in case I forgot where each went.
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring clamps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.
I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.
I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.