This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It is a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning.
This drive hub kit (part number W10528947VP) is for washers.
Drive hub kit W10528947VP connects the spin basket to the spin shaft that spins the basket. The kit may include multiple parts; refer to...
This is a replacement clutch assembly or cam kit for your washer. The clutch assembly is mounted on the drive shaft on the bottom of your washer. You may need to replace the clutch assembly if the spl...
This part changes the transmission from agitation to spin mode. This actuator is for washers.
Actuator shifts the splutch and monitors the position of the splutch.
These parts are the replacement suspension rod supports for your washer. They are made of plastic and are approximately 1 ½ inches in diameter. This package will come with an 8-piece set of suspension...
This part is the replacement lid latch or latch assembly for your top-load washer. The lid latch holds your washer door closed, and allows the washer to run its cycle. If the lid latch is damaged, you...
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4 questions answered by our experts.
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Scott
July 21, 2023
Washer is extremely loud on spin cycle
For model number WTW5640XW3
Hi Scott, thank you for contacting us. Your washer may be facing this issue because of the faulty clutch assembly. We recommend you replace the clutch assembly, part number PS10057144, to fix the issue. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It helps the tub to gradually get up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out over time, it may become loud during the spin cycle or just after the spin cycle finishes. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
When. The machine goes from wash to rinse this high pitch squeal and loud grinding noise.And last through the remander of the load. The clothes are not spinned out.3n
For model number WTW5640XW3
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty or loose drive belt PS11747978 and/or possibly a malfunctioning pulley PS10057144 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
What part needs to be changed if the machine doesn’t go into the spin cycle after the rinse cycle?
For model number WTW5640XW3
Hello Giselle, thank you for reaching out. We would recommend checking the drain hose for clogging. If this is not the issue, you may need to check the shift actuator, part number PS11747977, to solve the problem. This part changes the transmission from agitation to spin mode. Actuator shifts the splutch and monitors the position of the splutch. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
The washer fills with water when not in use, and if I don't take my clothes out immediately after the wash is finished, I have to run a spin/drain cycle.
For model number WTW5640XW3
Hello Ed, thank you for your question! The issue would be one of the water inlet valves and one of them will need to be replaced. The part numbers listed under your model number for both the hot and cold water inlet valves are PS12348074 and PS12348073. You will need to check the valves to see which one is causing the issue. Good luck with this repair!
A detailed Service Technician Service Manual is hidden inside the machine on the front panel. It is hidden by the bleach dispenser input. It gives a list of fault codes and instructions for calibration after repair, resetting fault codes, and a manual test mode for stepping the machine through each mode on command. The Tachometer failed which would not let the machine come up to maximum spin speed. The tachometer is part of the solenoid actuator that shifts the transmission. It is not specifically called out in the manual. Any failure causes the lid lock light to blink which gives the appearance of a lid lock failure
The instructions that came with the part were worthless. Essentially, unplug, put in new part, plug it back in. I spent a considerable amount of time on the internet and finally found a video showing how to open the top. Unlike other models, it is held down by clamps in the back rather than clips in the front. Once finding this information the installation was simple. Remove the clamps and the back of the console, slide the top forward and lift, remove and replace the lock and reassemble. You don't even have to remove the hoses.
Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.
