WTW500CMW1 Whirlpool Washer - Overview

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Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$15.68
In Stock
Hose Clamp
Part #WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
Washer Washplate – Part Number: W10752283
$143.60
In Stock
Washer Washplate
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Part #W10752283
If your washer isn’t cleaning clothes like it used to or making strange noises, the washplate might be the problem. This part sits at the bottom of the tub and helps move clothes through the water for a better clean. It fits many Whirlpool and Kenmore top-load washers and is easy to replace. Just make sure it matches your model before ordering!
Washer Washplate Screw – Part Number: W10752187
$12.05
In Stock
Washer Washplate Screw
Part #W10752187
LATCH – Part Number: W11700916
$81.65
In Stock
LATCH
Part #W11700916
Keep your top-load washer running safely and smoothly with this replacement lid lock assembly. It’s designed to secure the lid during active cycles, preventing interruptions and ensuring the machine operates only when properly closed. Whether your current latch is worn out or no longer functioning, this component offers a dependable fix. Installation is straightforward, and it fits a variety of washer models, making it a practical choice for restoring peace of mind in your laundry routine.
Washer Knob Springclip – Part Number: WP688805
$14.66
In Stock
Washer Knob Springclip
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Part #WP688805
Also known as the inside sleeve for the knob to be able to properly fit over the shaft of the switch. Sold individually.
Water-Pump – Part Number: W10876600
$178.67
In Stock
Water-Pump
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Part #W10876600
This drain pump is engineered for top-load washing machines and plays a vital role in the appliance’s drainage system. During the drain cycle, it efficiently removes water from the washer tub and channels it through the drain hose into your home’s plumbing. If your washer is experiencing slow drainage, unusual grinding or rattling noises, or standing water at the end of a cycle, the pump may be malfunctioning. Common causes include wear over time, electrical issues, physical damage, or clogs from small items like coins or buttons. Replacing a faulty drain pump can restore proper function and prevent further issues with your machine’s performance.
SLIDER – Part Number: W10734521
$60.45
In Stock
SLIDER
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Part #W10734521
This clutch slider kit is part of the transmission system in select washing machines, helping control the movement and speed of the agitator during wash and spin cycles. The kit includes a clutch band, slider, and lock ring, and allows the machine to start, stop, and shift speeds smoothly. If worn or damaged, it can cause issues like noisy operation, difficulty spinning, or failure to start properly. Replacing the kit restores proper function and helps maintain efficient performance.
CLUTCH – Part Number: W10754448
$156.31
In Stock
CLUTCH
Part #W10754448
This clutch assembly is designed for use in top-load washing machines, where it plays a crucial role in engaging the transmission during both the agitation and spinning cycles. If your washer is experiencing issues such as failing to agitate or spin properly, a worn or faulty clutch may be the cause. Replacing the clutch requires accessing the underside of the washer, and basic tools such as a socket wrench and screwdriver will be needed for installation. This component is sold with a single securing screw and is intended to restore proper mechanical function to your appliance, helping ensure smooth and efficient operation during wash cycles.
Impact Absorber – Part Number: WP8564458
$14.95
In Stock
Impact Absorber
Part #WP8564458
Extension Hose – Part Number: 285863
$44.45
In Stock
Extension Hose
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Part #285863
This part is used to extend washing machine drain hose approximately 4 feet. You may also require the connector (PartSelect Number PS334663) to connect the extension to the existing drain hose.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WPW10109200
$11.66
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WPW10109200
11-16 x 3/4 Sold individually.
Washer Water Pressure Hose Cut to Fit – Part Number: WP353244
$63.75
In Stock
Washer Water Pressure Hose Cut to Fit
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Part #WP353244
This is the hose that tells your appliance if your tub is at the desired water level.

Common Symptoms of the WTW500CMW1

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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Violent shaking of tub when spin
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Clayton, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
replaces all 4 suspension rods.
1. unplug machine.
Take a zip tie and attach the end to form a loop. Keep the loop as large as possible.
2. Remove 4 self tapping screws in back of machine top two are into the tabs, 1 in the washer top and 1 in the electrical cover.
3. Use plastic pry bar to elevate tabs under t op on right and left sides. use the heel of your hand to tap the back of the top forward. Once it moves you will need to use the pry bar to help pop it up out of the tab. When both sides are loose and the top is free. It will tilt back. There are slots on the top that the tabs on the washer slide into to hold the top up. CAUTION: the lid is hinged and loose so either have it supported when it’s back or use tape to secure it shut.
4. At the 4 corners you will see where the suspension rods attach into the plastic cups. Use a screwdriver to pry up the hook until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Lift the hook until it clears the plastic puck, remove the puck then let the hook fall into the hole.
5. If possible set a flashlight so you can see down to the bottom attach point of the suspension rods attach. Grab the rod about half way down the shaft, the push down. The assembly will break loose and drop to the bottom, then you can slide the rod out and remove it. NOTE: THE SPRING IS STRONG. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ROD, THE TUB WILL NOT BE SUPPORTED AT THAT POINT, SO YOU WILL ALSO HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE TUB TO CONTEND WITH WHEN YOU INSTALL THE NEW ROD.
6. Make sure the new rod assembly has the black retainer positioned on top of the spring and the white retainer is about 6” above.
7. Hold the new rod so you can put the bottom with the spring back into the plastic cup. Once it’s in, give the rod a tug to seat the spring in the holder. keep holding the rod. Grab the zip tie loop you made earlier. Place it on the top hook of the hook then hold the rod by the zip tie. Feed the tie through the top hole, insert the screwdriver through the zip tie and set over the hole to hold the rod in position. Get the holder cup assembly (outer ring and inner bracket).
8. Hold the zip tie, let it back through the hole, while holding it, position the outer cup, then pull the zip tie back through the hole, insert the center bracket watching the position so the stem clears the rod, then lift the zip tie and position the hook over the bracket. At this point you can either cut the zip tie and pull it out or pry up the hook on the rod until you can slip off the zip tie.
9. Let the rod seat into the cup bracket. I orient the hook so it faces outside. The first rod is in.
10. Repeat doing 1 rod at a time. Be prepared to bruise your arm reaching down into the washer as it’s close quarters. The spring is strong and the tub is heavy so you need some arm strength to do this with one arm. It isn’t difficult and you’ll do better on each successive rod.
11. When all the rods are in and set, ease the top back down, align the tabs, check the side tabs that they didn’t bend (if they did just bent them back in), make sure the top is out of the tabs, then shove the front to reset the top.
12. Reattach the 4 sheet metal screws to the top, plug it it and test.
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Washer plate replacement
11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Belita from VANCEBURG, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
As women, myself and my daughter completed this fairly simple repair. The replacement washer plate was top quality and included the washplate replacement screw. Additionally, we purchased a tube of lock tight to further secure bolt placement. The most difficult part of the repair is to disengage old screw and securely replace with new one . Very pleased with fast delivery Excellent customer service and top quality part.
Thanks
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