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WT1101CW
WT1101CW ((ABWEPUS)) LG Washer - Overview
Sections of the WT1101CW
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Pulsator Cap
PartSelect #: PS3525704
Manufacturer #: 5006EA3009B
This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
$38.92
In Stock
Washer Drain Pump Assembly
PartSelect #: PS11706439
Manufacturer #: 5859EA1004P
This drain pump is for washers. Drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle. Unplug the washer before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
$251.30
In Stock
HOUSING ASSEMBLY,CLUTCH COUPLING
PartSelect #: PS12580053
Manufacturer #: AEN73651402
This clutch housing assembly with mode shifter, or washer drive shaft and shifter assembly, is made for your washer. It connects the appliance wash plate to the motor so the washer can shift the drive...
$330.05
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3527446
Manufacturer #: 5221EA1008F
This is an authentic LG water inlet valve for a top-load washer. It is designed to control the flow of water into the washer. If your washer is filling slowly, making loud noises, overflowing, or stop...
$203.43
In Stock
Questions And Answers for WT1101CW
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David
July 25, 2023
my hot water keeps pumping as soon as the washer is powered on. Replaced the water inlet valve assembly as the middle two valves were rusty. This did not help. Have tried the reset many times but to no avail. Tried starting a load with cold water only and the hot water shut off but will not pump water at all at that point.
For model number WT1101CW
Hello David, thank you for your inquiry. Since you have replaced the water inlet valve and that does not solve the problem, we would recommend checking the display control board, part number PS7793226, to fix the issue. It provides the display for the control panel and communicates the cycle you choose to the washer main control board. We hope this solves your problem!
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Betty
August 15, 2023
Top loader, door latch fails to engage. Displays “dl” on screen as error. Can I fix this temporarily? Do I need to order part? Please advise.
For model number WT1101CW
Hello Betty, thank you for the great question. According to our research, the dl error code indicates that there is an issue with the washer lid switch. As there is no temporarily fix for the error code, you may need to replace this part. The lid switch assembly, part number PS3644957, is compatible with your model. We hope this solves your problem!
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Duane
November 10, 2023
Washer stops and keeps saying uneven load?
For model number WT1101CW
Hi Duane, thank you for the question. First, you may need to make sure that the load is balanced inside the tub and the washer is level. If that is not causing the issue, then you may need to replace the suspension rod assembly, part number PS8749609, as it is most likely faulty. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the WT1101CW
[Viewing 7 of 7]Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Lid or door won’t close
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Spinning Issues
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
It did not drain water, cycle stops at rinse+spin.
1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.
Parts Used:
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Jesus from El Paso, TX
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set, Wrench set
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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The right side hinge that holds the washer top door broke and needed to be replaced.
Popped out the plastic "doors" that cover the metal actuators. Removed the metal actuators on both right and left sides of the door then unscrewed (3 screws each actuator) them from door frame. Slid the actuators out to enable the door to be removed. Unscrewed 2 screws on the top front of the washer which enabled me to angle the top of the washer to expose the screws that hold the plastic hinges. Unscrewed the hinges (2 screws each) and replaced both of the hinges (I figured I'd do both of them now so I don't have to do it again for another 15 years). Put everything back together and all works like new.
Parts Used:
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John from SAN JOSE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 10 people
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LOUD GRINDING/ROARING NOISE, INTERMITTANT SPIN
Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
Good luck, you can do it.
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
Good luck, you can do it.
Parts Used:
-
MIKE from LANDENBERG, PA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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