The upper felt seal for your dryer is attached to the top edge of the drum support area, and is held there by a high temperature adhesive. It creates a seal where the dryer door opens and closes, so t...
This idler pulley assembly is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your washer/dryer. The assembly includes the idler pulley and arm. The idler pulley provides tension for the belt to rotate t...
Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on. This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
Replacing the switch is relatively easy, however, I would caution all experiencing similar problems one thing. Before assuming, as I did, that the switch was bad, first remove the panel of the washer that houses the washing tub/basin. On the back of the tub, check to make sure that the tube connecting the tub and switch has not come off from the tub as it did in my situation. The solution to my problem of a leaking washing machine where the water would not stop filling on both wash and rinse cycles was simply reattaching the tube to the tub. If I would have checked that first, total job completion time would have been under 15 minutes. Hope this helps. If you need to replace the actual switch, remove the knobs, screws, and panel. Remove the wires, tube, and screw from the switch and reassemble new switch. That took me about 30-45 minutes.
The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would need to pay a repair person to do!
