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This temperature sensor is for refrigerators.
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Unplug the refrigerator and s...
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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Tina
March 3, 2020
My refrigerator runs non stop and it stopped cooling. I cleaned the condenser coils, this did not help. I removed the cover to see the evaporator it was clear, but the heater had ice buildup. What could be the problem?
For model number WRR56X18FW01
Hello Tina, thank you for your question. We would recommend testing the defrost heater and the thermistor. When testing the resistance of the Thermistor with a multi meter, it should read at around 11,000 ohms at room temperature to be working correctly. When testing the heater remove it from the appliance. It should be reading anywhere between 0 - 50 ohms to be working. I hope this helps.
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Tina
March 7, 2020
We tested both defrost heater and the thermistor and they both test properly. Now what?
For model number WRR56X18FW01
Hi Tina, thank you for your question. Your next step would be to check your start relay and your run capacitor on your compressor to see if they might not be starting the compressor to actually get the cold freon into your appliance to cool it. Good luck with your repair.
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Sheila
February 4, 2020
Refrigerator not cooling and is blowing warm air?
For model number WRR56X18FW01
Hello Sheila, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Refrigerator Temperature Sensor. At 70 degrees the resistance should be 9.3K ohms, 90 degrees would be 7.7K ohms. at 100 degrees would be 6.2K ohms, and 120 degrees would be 4.3K ohms. If the thermistor reads outside of range then it needs replaced. We hope this helps.
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
I took the screws out of back panel and slid water line and panel off to the right side while I removed the capacitor and starter relay. Relay was probably the only problem, but I replaced capacitor too while I was doing the repair. Finished removal and replacement in about 20 minutes. While I had panel off I cleaned coils that I could see from behind and then did the same on front side. Cost was $136 for both parts. I could have done it for $71 if I did not replace the capacitor too. Saved my daughter from being taken advantage of.
The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.
The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.
To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.
