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Kevin
December 15, 2019
I believe the problem is the door switch is bad. Panel says open/close door when trying to start. How do i access oven to replace it.
For model number WMH32519FW0
Hello Kevin, thank you for your question. There are three door switches that work together to allow the unit to work. They send a signal to the board that the door is closed and the unit can be turned on safely. They are located just inside the unit where the door closes. Usually you have to remove the top grille vent, and the top screws that hold the control panel face on. When the control panel is removed the black door switches will be visible in a plastic holder. If you are getting a message that is telling you to constantly open and close the door, then you will need to check all off the door switches to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to test each one with a ohmmeter. Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumb wheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale. Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present. The presence of a distinct 'clicking' noise is evidence that your switch is working as it should. Be that as it may, switches with only two terminals do not 'click' when actuated. Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place, but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms. Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite. Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity. Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced. I hope this helps!
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The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
Ordered top & bottom micro-switches and mounting plate parts. Internet reviews could not find specifics if the issue was due to a top/bottom or combination of micro-switch or mounting plate failure. Pulled the plug. Removed the top vent assembly cover held in by 2 Phillips screws inside the vent. Removed the control panel held in by 1 Phillip screw at the top vent assembly area. Lifted control panel upward to release the catch and moved it off to the side - didn't disconnect any leads. Used a Torx bit to remove the door switch mounting plates at the front and pulled the plates through the opening from the control panel. Documented the wire color code connections, the top plate uses 2 micro's with one using both the closed & open contact. Installed the respective micros on the mounting plates and worked backwards with the wiring and removal steps. Once completed, the open/close sensing has worked every time.