WMH31017HB09 Whirlpool Microwave - Overview

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Grease Filter – Part Number: W10208631A
$36.25
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Grease Filter
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Part #W10208631A
This Grease Filter is constructed of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene and is used to trap grease and help eliminate odors from the exhaust air while cooking. It attaches onto the exhaust and is rated as easy to install. The part is 12 15/16" x 5 3/4", and comes in silver. Refer to your make and model number to ensure this part is right for you. If the exhaust fan of your appliance is not working, this part is the most likely cause. This part is sold individually, and it should be noted that many microwaves require two filters, so you may need to replace both at the same time by purchasing two of this part. You should consider gloves during this simple repair (which requires no tools) to save yourself from getting greasy hands.
Mounting Plate – Part Number: W11025649
$28.90
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R Ceramic Fuse 20 A – Part Number: W11707984
$47.21
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R Ceramic Fuse 20 A
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Part #W11707984
This part protects the microwave by shutting it off if there is an electrical surge.
DIODE – Part Number: W11256462
$38.45
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DIODE
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Part #W11256462
This part allows power to go one way but not the other.
Cook Tray – Part Number: W11367904
$88.48
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Cook Tray
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Part #W11367904
This glass turntable tray helps food cook evenly by rotating inside the microwave. Verify size and fitment before ordering.
Microwave Damper – Part Number: W10843943
$91.76
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Microwave Damper
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Part #W10843943
This assembly includes the damper door and frame.
Microwave Turn Ring – Part Number: W11252182
$52.79
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Microwave Turn Ring
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Part #W11252182
This support ring sits underneath the glass turntable tray.
Microwave Top Mounting Screw – Part Number: WP8169704
$14.02
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Microwave Top Mounting Screw
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Part #WP8169704
This screw is sold individually.
Charcoal Filter – Part Number: W10892387
$26.35
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Charcoal Filter
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Part #W10892387
A dirty charcoal filter can reduce airflow and allow cooking smells to remain in the room. It sits inside a recirculating microwave vent and absorbs odors as air passes through it. First clean the separate grease filters and make sure the vent openings are not blocked. Confirm fit with the complete microwave model and follow the replacement schedule in the owners manual. Disconnect electrical power before opening the grille, keep track of the screws, and avoid bending the filter frame. Replace the filter when it is dirty or no longer controls odors.
Interlock Support – Part Number: WPW10156813
$15.31
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Interlock Support
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Part #WPW10156813
Also known as a switch holder.
Top Interlock Support – Part Number: WP8206419
$31.85
In Stock
Top Interlock Support
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Part #WP8206419
If your microwave won’t start or seems to run with the door slightly open, this top interlock support might be the issue. It helps make sure the door is fully closed before the microwave turns on, which is important for safety. This part holds the switch that tells the microwave it’s safe to run. Replacing it can fix problems like error messages or the microwave not starting at all. Just be sure to unplug the appliance before doing any repairs.
Plate Cam – Part Number: W10562613
$25.25
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the WMH31017HB09

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Microwave made very loud noise while on. No heat.
52 of 87 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sleiman from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unless you have a very comfortable background with electronics and electricity, I don't necessarily recommend taking apart a microwave. If you are very handy and are going to be VERY cautious to follow the rules of discharging caps and testing voltages before moving forward, then go for it. That said, I took the microwave off and apart. Not knowing where to find the parts, I was fortunate that the installer put the instruction book for the microwave inside the front vent slot above the touchpad for reference. it details the location of every part and it tells you very clearly what each part you test should show specific to this microwave on your multimeter. Find this guide online if you don't have it. Turn on the microwave for 20 seconds with a glass of water to make sure it's not heating - that with the noise means it's eeither the magnetron, cap, or diode. Read the notes on this site for all of the basic things to look for with the magnetron, diode, and capacitor. Once comfortable with the guide, locations of those devices, and how to test, then take it down and apart. Unfortunately, I didn't do all those things in that order, and it only wasted a lot of time trying to find the parts. Once I found the parts and put all the screws and covers back for all the areas that didn't need to be accessed for the repair, testing went quickly. The diode was bad. Ordered a new one and had it in 3 days or so. That means your microwave will be apart and sitting somewhere for a little while until you get the part and have time to repair it. Putting the diode back isn't too bad. Reassemble the microwave and put it back up again. If i had to do it again, it would take me 20 to 30 minutes once the microwave was down and on a table. Also, I used some bricks with towels over them or you could use some sawhorses to keep the microwave elevated so you can plug it in and run it after installing the new component. Again, make sure you discharge the cap before touching anything again even if you didn't run it, but just plugged it in.
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Humming sound, not heating.
43 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fausto from Miramar, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turn off the income electricity by shutting down the corresponding circuit breaker. Then, I removed the control panel from the microwave which gave me access to the capacitor and adjacent diode. After that i unscrewed the defective diode and replaced it with the new one and BINGO!
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Microwave turntable does not work
33 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from San Bernardino, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.
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