WF42H5000AW (A2-0001) Samsung Washer - Overview

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Parts for the WF42H5000AW

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Shock Damper Front – Part Number: DC66-00470A
$70.98
On Order
Shock Damper Front
Part #DC66-00470A
Hex Head Bolt – Part Number: DC60-40137A
$19.28
In Stock
Hex Head Bolt
Part #DC60-40137A
This part is used for the shaft on rear of the tub. Sold individually.
Shock Damper Rear – Part Number: DC66-00470B
$71.61
In Stock
Shock Damper Rear
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #DC66-00470B
A washer that walks across the floor or becomes unusually noisy may have a weak suspension damper. The rear shock absorbs tub movement during washing and spinning, helping the machine run more smoothly. These symptoms do not prove the damper has failed, so first check the floor, leveling feet, load size, and suspension springs. Match the replacement to the complete model because mounting ends and force ratings can differ. Disconnect power and water before opening the cabinet. Keep the tub supported, note each fasteners position, and avoid pinching hoses or wires during reassembly. Run an empty rinse and spin cycle to check for leaks, noise, and steady movement.
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Tapping Screw – Part Number: 6002-000520
$5.95
In Stock
Tapping Screw
Part #6002-000520
This manufacturer-approved screw is for refrigerators, including Kenmore refrigerator model. Avoid cross-threading refrigerator screw during installation.
Drain Pump Assembly - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: DC31-00054A
No Longer Available
Drain Pump Assembly - 120V 60Hz
Part #DC31-00054A
This drain pump is designed to remove water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle. It is recommended to unplug the washer before installation to ensure safety. The Samsung Washer Drain Pump (part number DC31-00054A) is a crucial component that ensures efficient water removal during the washer's draining cycle, thus maintaining optimal washer performance. This part serves as a replacement for part number DC31-00016A. It's indispensable for resolving common drainage issues, such as residual water remaining in the washer drum. To ensure safe and proper installation, wear protective gloves. This safeguard will protect your hands from any sharp edges or components inside the washer.
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Door Boot Seal – Part Number: DC97-18094B
$152.14
On Order
Door Boot Seal
Part #DC97-18094B
Water Temperature Thermistor – Part Number: DC90-10128N
$46.09
In Stock
Water Temperature Thermistor
Part #DC90-10128N
The thermistor monitors and helps regulator the water temperature in the washer.
Washer Drain Pump – Part Number: DC31-00187A
$167.55
On Order
Washer Drain Pump
Part #DC31-00187A
The drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle.
Motor Assembly – Part Number: DC31-00111A
$197.59
On Order
Motor Assembly
Part #DC31-00111A
Control Knob – Part Number: DC97-18058B
$116.67
In Stock
Control Knob
Part #DC97-18058B
The control knob lets you control cycle settings.
Outer Seal Clamp – Part Number: DC97-04973B
$23.32
In Stock
Outer Seal Clamp
Part #DC97-04973B
Water Valve – Part Number: DC62-30314K
$88.26
On Order
Water Valve
Part #DC62-30314K
One solenoid valve for hot water
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Questions And Answers for WF42H5000AW

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Joe - For model number WF42H5000AW
November 14, 2023
What to do for a 4e error code
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Joe, thank you for reaching out. We have researched and found that the error code 4E means that no water is coming into the washer from the supply hose. We would recommend checking the water supply hose for blockage and making sure it is properly connected. If this does not resolve the issue, then replace the water inlet valve to solve the problem. Your model comes with two water inlet valves. The hot water inlet valve is part number PS4209100, and the cold water inlet valve is part number PS4209090. We hope this helps!
$153.38
In Stock
Washer Water Valve
$88.26
On Order
Water Valve
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Robert - For model number WF42H5000AW
December 15, 2023
I have plastic in the filter. Can you tell me what could cause this.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Robert, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the drain pump, part number PS12742622, for damage. Also, make sure to check the load before washing for any components that can get stuck in the drain filter. We hope this solves your problem!
$167.55
On Order
Washer Drain Pump
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Common Symptoms of the WF42H5000AW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Will not drain
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Fixing
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Shaking and Moving
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Fixing
Fixing
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Leaking
Fixed by
these parts
Fixing
Fixing
Fixing
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Water Filling Issues
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Fixing
Fixing
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Spinning Issues
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Fixing
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Lid or door won’t close
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Videos related to models starting with WF42H5000AW

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Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

Replacing the Shock Damper Rear

Replacing the Shock Damper Rear

Replacing the Drain Pump Assembly - 120V 60Hz

Replacing the Drain Pump Assembly - 120V 60Hz

Replacing the Control Knob

Replacing the Control Knob

Replacing the Water Valve

Replacing the Water Valve

Replacing the Switch Cover

Replacing the Switch Cover

Replacing the Washer Water Valve

Replacing the Washer Water Valve

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See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

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Code indicating washer was NOT discharging water
11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SCOTT from VERNAL, UT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Watched the video, procedure was simple and as depicted on the video. Started by using a wet shop Vac to the discharge hose and sucked as much dirty wash water out as possible. Removed the pump,and found the motor did not turn freely. Removed the motor (3 screws) and replaced the motor with new part. Reassembled the washer, everything wor ked as it should. After about 3-4 loads of laundry, the "Not Draining" code / problem returned. Again, sucked out the water with the Shop Vac. Checked the Filter /Cleanout and found it completely packed with MUD. Cleaned that out, and again disassembled the washer. The pump was removed and the remaining muddy gunk was cleaned from the impeller. The 3 drain lines that attached to the pump were inspected for blockage/obstruction and flushed of any muddy residue. Reassembly was quick and easy, and the washer has worked well since. I have no idea how the dirt got into the system with enough dirt to gunk up the system. Recommend keeping more frequent inspections of the cleanout trap.
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The washing would stop in mid cycle and the door would be locked.
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur from WILLARD, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
An initial issue was getting the door to unlock. I tired several things but finally was able to pull the door as if to open it and put something between the door handle and the front of the washer while I ran a washer cycle. There is a way to take the washer top off and reach down inside the unit and pull down on a release, but I did no t try that.

The washer has a rubber boot between the washer frame and the wash tub. There is a metal wire ring that secures the outer edge of the boot to the washer frame. Peel back the outer edge of the boot at the bottom to reveal a metal ring that has its ends connected by a small spring. Use a flat tip screw drive to pry this ring off. Peel back the boot from the washer frame.

Next use a Phillips screw drive to remove the two screws that protrude through the wash frame on the right side of the door.

Reach between the washer tub and the frame and the tub and pull the switch through the opening and the washer tub. You will have to wiggle the switch around to remove it. There are three sets of wires attached to the switch by plugs.

The switch is covered with a plastic protective cover. Remove this. You will have to use a screw driver to release various catches to do this.

Remove the three set of wires. There are catches that secure the wire plugs in place. pry them back with a small screw drive.

Attach the new switch to the sets of wires.

Attach the protective cover to the switch. The wires feed through a small slot toward the bottom of the switch.

Slide the switch through the opening where you removed it. and re-attach it using the two screws.

Put the rubber boot in the channel in the washer frame. Replace the metal ring. This was the most challenging part of the repair for me. I had to play around with this to get it into position. You have to work it around the gasket and stretch out the spring.

By the way, The service was great and exceeded by expectations.
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OE error code, water keeps flowing during spin cycle, softener dispenser left half full of water, clothes wet after washer stops
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Peachtree City, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Found a repair video of a Samsung washer that looks like mine (9 years old). Removed two screws from the back of the washer, slid the top a few inches toward the front and lifted it off. Disconnected the two double electrical connections, the two rubber tubes from the solenoids, the cold water hose from the back and removed the two scre ws holding the valve in place. Installed the new valve by reversing those steps, slid the top back into place and secured it with the two screws and viola (as Kelly Bundy would say)! The washer now functions normally. I'm waiting for my next water bill to arrive to see whether the sudden increase in usage decreases to its normal amount. We have three adults and four small children in the household so the washer is constantly in use.
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