This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
This dryer drum belt from Whirlpool/Kenmore has five ridges. It is used for many of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers. This flat belt is 1/4 of an inch wide.
This thermostat may differ in appearance, but functions the same as the original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
The idler pulley wheel is now sold with this arm. This idler pulley is for dryers.
Idler pulley maintains correct tension on the drive belt to spin the drum.
Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than...
This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is do...
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5 questions answered by our experts.
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Gary
December 14, 2019
Where do i find the screw that fits the lint filter assembly that holds the assembly secure
For model number WED70HEBW0
Hello Gary,
Thank you for your question. The screws that fit onto the lint filter assembly for your model are under part PS11741409 and are sold individually. We hope this helps!
Why doesn’t the dryer spin. There is electricity and all lights and sounds go on. When I push start, It doesn’t spun.
For model number WED70HEBW0
Hello Suzanne, thank you for getting in touch. According to our research, the issue is most probably with the drive belt. We would suggest replacing the drive belt, part number PS11722115, to solve the problem. It attaches to the motor pulley and spins the drum as the motor rotates. Glad to be of assistance!
Our dryer quit operating yesterday. All power/settings/timer lights/leds/beep tones, etc come on as normal. When I press the "hold to start button", it sounds a single beep, however nothing happens.
For model number WED70HEBW0
Hi Larry, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description you have provided, we would recommend checking the control panel, part number PS11756220. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope that helps!
When dryer is first started tumbler won't move, if a full load of clothes are put in dryer. When on normal dry cycle , only 3 pieces of clothing can be put in at a time to dry? Still slow for tumbler to move.
For model number WED70HEBW0
Hello Carol, thank you for getting in touch. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the drive belt. If it is not faulty, then you may need to replace the drive motor, part number PS334287, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
Hi Brenda, thank you for reaching out. We have found that the issue is with door switch, part number PS11753511. It prevents the dryer from running when the door is open. You may need to replace the switch to fix the issue. Glad to be of assistance!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!
