This heating element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current, causing the wire to heat up. The heat produced is...
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt att...
This thermal cut-off kit for a dryer includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This high-limit thermostat with Terminal Extension Arm acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches 221 degrees Fahrenheit, this piece will shu...
$29.89
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Questions And Answers for WED5000DW2
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Jerry
October 27, 2022
My timer does not advance and turn off
For model number WED5000DW2
Hi Jerry, thank you for reaching out. If the timer of your dryer does not advance, you need to test the timer for continuity using a multimeter. If the timer is bad, we recommend you replace the timer with part number PS11749833. We hope this helps! If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
Why might this model shut off after running for a few minutes? This happens everytime even if we put it on "no heat." the dryer is heating normal.
For model number WED5000DW2
Hi Sarah,
Thank you for your question. If the dryer is shutting off too soon, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the dryer thermal fuse, the door catch and strike, the thermal cut-off, the drive motor and the high limit thermostat. You will need to test the electronic parts with a multi-meter. Here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to use one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. For the door catch and strike, you will need to inspect the parts visually to make sure that they are aligned correctly and are not damaged. If they are, you will need to replace them.
We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
In the bulkhead parts number 25 can you run the dryer with this out please advise
For model number WED5000DW2
Hello Thomas, thank you for your question. Yes, you should be able to run the unit without that piece, but you would not be able to use the auto dry function. I hope this helps.
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Carol
December 11, 2024
The plastic sleeve broke on the dryer timer knob. Can this part be obtained? Otherwise the dryer is drying and working fine.
For model number WED5000DW2
Hello Carol, Thank you for writing. We think you are referring to the D-Shaped Knob Insert, PartSelect #: PS11746209. We hope this is what you were looking for!
My Whirlpool Dryer (WED5000DW2) will run for a few minutes and then stop. If I wait for a while I can restart the dryer but the same symptom repeats. I have checked for blockage and there was none in the dryer or the vent pipe, and the distance between the dryer and the outdoor vent is only about 18 inches. I have replaced the heating element, the dryer thermal fuse, and the thermal cut off (using a kit for both parts). Symptom persists.
For model number WED5000DW2
Hello Paul, thank you for your inquiry. As you have already replaced the heating element, the thermal fuse, and the thermal cut off and the issue still persists. We would recommend replacing the timer, part number PS11749833, to solve the problem. It controls the electrical components and the duration of the dryer cycles. Before replacing the timer, make sure the moisture sensor is working. We hope that helps!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
![](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/346995-1-S-Whirlpool-341241-Multi-Rib-Belt-92-1-4-amp-quot.jpg "Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241")