This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This crisper pan, or drawer, is made for your refrigerator. The drawer has a controlled environment to ensure a proper humidity level to keep your produce fresh for longer. It is clear in color and ma...
***NOTE: Ice maker does NOT come with the bail or shut off arm. You must order them separately if required. It does come complete with flat and round plug wiring harness, the mounting hardware, and th...
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a dama...
Also known as a Water Solenoid Valve. The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
$91.16
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Questions And Answers for W8RXNGMBB01
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Robert
October 18, 2023
They are have ordered the gasket for the refrigerator door twice both times the gasket came it was too small quarter inch too small across the top and the length 3/4 of an inch to small am I ordering the wrong part .
For model number W8RXNGMBB01
Hello Robert, thank you for contacting us. We have researched and found that the compatible refrigerator door gasket for your model is part number PS11740396. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week!
I backed out the 2 top screws about a quarter inch and then removed bottem screw with a quater inch nut driver. I then lifted Ice Maker clear of the two top screws and lowered it enough to unclip the power connection with a small screwdriver. The new Ice Maker was wired correctley for my refrigeator so all I had to do wea reconnect the power connection and mount new Ice Maker on the two top screws and install the bottem screw. It took e while for the new Ice Maker to start it's cycle but after it did, it worked GREAT. Part Select service was OUTSTANDING, ordered part one day and received the next. THANKS!!!!
I am NOT a handyman, and my family laughed at me when I said I was going to fix the ice maker all by myself. I ordered a replacement ice maker. When it arrived, I opened the box and read the instructions. It seemed easy. I removed the old ice maker, with a socket set. I then took off the shut off lever from the old one and placed it on the new one, since the new one didn't come with it. I then put the new one in place. All the parts fit perfectly. The ice machine was making ice within an hour. My family was amazed... and I got the last laugh!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.