Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This part is a replacement control knob for your washer. The control knob allows you to select the desired setting for your wash cycle. If your washer will not start or the timer will not advance, you...
This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, a...
This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the corre...
The triple water valve or inlet valve in your washer connects to the water source and solenoid wires, and ensures the tub has the right amount of water entering it. If your washing machine continues t...
$141.10
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Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.
Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!